June 25

Having nothing at all to complain about except only getting six hours of sleep, I was off like a flash into a rainy and stormy morning. The weather cleared early to eventually become a very nice day. Eventually, after lazing about in the afternoon sun, I made it to Dan's Spring at 1230.1. Along the way, I found sime awesome, scenic overlooks.

At the previous shelter there was a menu of a place that delivered to the shelter (shelter was about 15 feet off a road and about 0.2 miles from the trail). Some hikers took advantage of this opportunity - Jersey and some boy scouts. The place wanted to charge both groups an extra 4 dollars for delivery fees even though the groups ordered together and would be delivered together. About forty five minutes layer, a really rude woman showed up with the orders. She storms up in a huff and verbatim said, " I work for tips hint hint." Jersey took offense and said something to the effect that his 7 dollar sub was going to cost 15 with tax, tip, and extra fees. They went back and forth a bit, neither really raising their voice, and then she just threw Jersey's money back in his face. Her parting words were if you're that hard pressed, have it on me. I think something else was going on that day...

June 24

Addendum to two days ago: I saw a timber rattler for the first time! He was about two and a half feet of ugly snake in the middle of the trail. It looked at me, I looked at it, and then I contemplated what to do. I just walked around it in a roundabout fashion. I made no sudden movements and neither did he. Unnerving but I was excited to see him. (end of addendum)

Woke after what I wouldn't call a restful sleep. I quickly packed my tent and was off. Breakfast provided via trail magic was just four miles away! I trotted through the woods at a good clip but not so fast as to get lost.

As I sprang from the woods into this parking area the first breakfast sandwiches were being served by two thruhikers from 2007. There were tents, tubs of gatorade, water, and beer(!), snack foods, fresh fruit, and hot meals being prepared. This was hiker nirvana. Since they'd hiked before, they knew the game. It was excellent. I don't think I've ever had a breakfast sandwich that tasted so good (mom and aunt donna, we'll say you can have a rematch the next time I see you!).

The providers were also offering to slack pack people. I didn't give it much though until Gribley (a 21 year old spiritual, young man with an enjoyment of people) came up. The fact that he showed up, as early ad he did, perplexed me. He was one of the hikers that the Doyle from a few days ago had left poorer and less than enthusiastic about hiking out of Duncannon the day that I did. Apparently, he'd been putting in some good miles to meet his dad in Hamburg later that day. Neat. After talking with the trail magic providers, he declared he would leave the bulk of his stuff, have his dad pick it up in the car as he drove to Hamburg, and he would slack pack the fifteen miles into Hamburg. That sounded like a great idea. I asked Gribley if he would mind if I did the same. This is where things get interesting.

Turns out both Gribley and I thought we should leave our cell phones and wallets in the bags his dad would pick up later. I think we just started grabbing weight indiscriminately and tossing it into the storage bags. Oh, to be young and stupid. Equipped with water and snacks, we left.

Those miles flew by. It was really just a blur. There were no views at all. The best part although stupid was downhill, cross country "skiing" the last 0.5 miles down the gravel covered trail. We were giggling like little boys. Yip... Yip... Weeee.

Once in town we called his dad from Cabelas (huge outdoor store - makes Bass Pro shops look small). His dad was stuck in traffic for another 4 hours. Here we were, two hikers with nothing but twenty dollars between us, pretty much possessionless, with nothing to do for four hours. Problem number two became clear when we realized the trail magic people were only stating until about 7. That is one hour before his dad would be there. Uh oh. We had mentioned the hotel Gribley was going to stay out though.

Because this us going to take too much time... long story short - the trail magic was still there when Gribley's dad came through, we waited for his dad at their motel un the lobby eating free cookies and watching fast and the furious, his dad took us both out to dinner, took us to Walmart so we could resupply,offered me a free bed in a 100$/night hotel, and drove me to the trail in the morning before they did their thing. Wow. They were both incredibly kind and generous. Also was able to get a continental breakfast at the hotel. Today was trail MAGIC.

June 23

Today was just pretty awesome. Woke well rested in my tent next to the creek and found it was colder than yesterday. It also seemed to be less buggy. With no good water for nine miles, I moved fast. I could have used the creek water, but it might have had some unsettling chemicals as it was right next to a road. After nine miles I sat right next to a spring for second breakfast or early lunch. It turned out I had two frogs as company. These frogs weren't camera shy either :)

About a gallon and an hour later, I headed to the infamous 501 shelter. The place turned out to be better than any shelter I'd seen in a really long time. It was more a cross between a shelter and a hostel than anything else.

It'd been my plan to move on quickly, but plans are fickle things. Apparently one could order Italian and have it delivered if one wanted. Not just one wanted; two wanted. Starman ordered a pizza and a salad while I  chose chicken parmagiana and a salad. Neither was incredible, but I was happy to have non hiker food. After filling up on water, I was on my way again. I was trying to make 9 miles more.

Plans are fickle thing. Turns out that there was a spring fed swimming hole at 6 miles out. Since I don't often get to play in water, I decided to stay here. Camping at the Hertline camp site at 1193.2. After clearing a tent site of rocks using the blunt end of my axe and a quick dip in the swimming hole, it's bed time.

Dreaming of trail magic in four miles as well as Cabelas and Hamberg tomorrow.

I love Pennsylvania!

June 22

Although today was slightly cooler due to a cold front, the bugs were worse than ever. They were infuriating. Buzz. Buzz. Fly right into your eyes, nose, or mouth. Buzz. Buzz. They were so bad that I took my long sleeve shirt, wrapped it around my head with just my eyes showing, and wore it for a good portion of the day. Even though it was hotter with the wrap on, it was more peaceful. Out here you don't need to be mad when you're walking.

Notable features of the day were a shelter getting refinished and a diversion well at Rausch Creek. A diversion well is a pretty neat manmade construction used to deacidify river water. It acts as a huge filter for a good part of a river, but instead of fine, porous media they used some sort of rock that would dissolve and react with the acid water. Pretty neat stuff!

Had in mind to do 30 or so miles today, but I became less ambitious as the miles accumulated. Made it to a camp site at 1174.8. Only 1009.4 left!

June 21

OToday's word is hotter. Its definition is - a greater degree of heat than some other thing. In a sentence - Today was hotter than yesterday.

With a high of 96, today was uncomfortably hot. I woke up at about six with the light beaming in through the antiquated windows of the Doyle. Since there was no air conditioning, the room was already 85 by six am. Nothing like waking up and sweating in a dusty, old room with a bright light in your eyes. I didn't want to use the communal shower, but I needed to cool down. After showering I headed to breakfast across the street at Goodies. This place was probably the only saving grace of Duncannon. The food wasn't incredible, but the pancakes were gigantic and the price was agreeable.

Starting the four mile walk on the trail out of town was the easiest start out of a town I've ever had. I wanted to get out and never come back. This town was so delightfully terrible that I passed four strip clubs on the way out of town. One claimed to have HOT dancers, ice cream, and BBQ. I believe two out of three.

When I finally got to the woods, it was already in the upper eighties with about 100% humidity. Duncannon has the lovely feature of being right on the bank of the susquehana river. City streets gave way to forest trail at the base of a large hill. Luckily, the best and easiest source of water was at the first shelter. This shelter was only about an hour of hiking up that hill away.

I thought the shelter would be colder than the surrounding area because it creates its own shade. I was wrong. I was really wrong. It was hotter in there by a lot. I literally jumped out of the shelter and setup my tent in the shade to guard against the bugs.

Things got really lazy after that. I stayed there four hours talking with Overdrive, Peach, and TaterTot, ate twice, played in the spring water, and took a small nap. Overdrive is a thirty some musician and pharmacist from Daytona Beach, Florida. I don't know too much about Peach other than she's a really nice, genuine soul. She's also super athletic. I think she swam in college? TaterTot is a woman in her late twenties with a bad case of wanderlust. She quit her art museum job to hike the trail, but the AT isn't her first big adventure. She's hiked across England, been to south America, and went on a research ship to Antarctica. She's pretty cool, but even with her experiences it seems we've nothing to talk about. It's the first time on the trail that I haven't been able to freely converse with a person about at least one thing.

After waiting most of the heat out I set off towards the next shelter. About a mile before the shelter, a generous afternoon hiker offered me some water and food as he got in his vehicle to leave. I took the water graciously, but now I wish I'd have taken the food too. :) Water was more important though because the shelter where I spent the night had a very steep walk down to get water. Due to his generosity, I did not have to get water from that shelter.

Shared the shelter with TaterTot and two ex-military looking fellows. Couldn't take them too serious because one had a dog named Jasmine.

Not exactly killer mileage, but I made it to Peters mountain shelter at 1152.1; however I did get out of Duncannon. That was enough for me.

June 15

I didn't quite make it to Ed Garvey shelter, but my new light and sticks weren't at fault. I think I realized that even if I made it to the shelter water would still be far away. For this reason and the fact that a breakfast on some cliffs would be epic, I decided to setup my tent at weverton cliffs.

Once I arrived at the cliffs, I did a quick sweep with my light to determine if I was alone on the cliff. I was not. There was a tent already there. To be respectful, I set up my tent far away from the other tent. Just because there was another person present didn't mean I wasn't going to visit the cliffs at night. I think it was at that moment when I invited some excitement into my night.

Obviously, if there is another person in a tent at eleven in the night, you'd use a soft step and a dim light to traverse the campsite. I did exactly this, but after ten steps, I hear a faint, repetitive whistle. It might have even had a slight quiver in its note. Deciding I had given the tent occupants a fright I called out, " hello, are you alright?" Immediately I hear a reply from inside the tent. She, a teacher in her late twenties, said, "ohmygosh! I'm so glad you weren't a bear." From then until about 12:30, we conversed about the trail and travel. It was pretty neat, but I was super tired from my travels. After politely excusing myself, I took my leave and went to sleep.  

Since I was unable to partake in the official Maryland challenge (do all of Maryland in one day approx. 40 miles), I decided I'd do what I used to do in a weekend in a day. I was going to make it to ensign cowall shelter from the weverton cliffs. That's about 27 miles. I was able to finish right as the sun was setting. Something about that day made me ravenously hungry. I've got to stop eating all my snacks ahead of time!

I was excited to stay in the shelter for the first time in about forever. The reason being was there was a very respectful and nice section hiking family - grandad, grandmom, mother, and two sons. Dad had had minor surgery recently and could not make it. They were all delightful. Each had a real personality. This is in direct opposition to most thru hikers. That lot is either asleep by 6pm or loud and boisterous. They also tend to take on larger than life personas. You know the deal... talking about themselves in third person and their trail reputation. Sometimes it can be humorous to hear, "Yep, that's what they say about old 'own trail name'." Sometimes you can only wag your head.

June 16

Today I officially became a Yankee. A fellow implored me to return, but I said, "Nay, my good sir, I'm a yank through and through until I'm done. Long live the Union and to the worms be Jefferson Davis." Basically, I crossed into Pennsylvania from Maryland. At the same time I also crossed the Mason Dixon line. Some hiking couple did offer me trail magic if I walked back about a mile; I politely declined.

It was sometime decided I'd try to make Duncannon, PA by the 19th. It's a bit ambitious but doable. Maybe I felt extra energy from the fresh fruit the weekend hikers left me. I don't quite know.

Made it a little past rocky mountain shelters today (1073.6). I've found I can do more miles in a day if I do four to five two hour shifts. The lengthening summer days aid my quest. It wasn't long after I started to set my tent up that two people started to venture down the trail - a youngish girl about 19, Rachel, and an older lady, Cindy. It was their first day out, and they were uneducated in the field of bear bagging. This fact rattled their very beings since they had seen a "huge" black bear a mile back. Because I could help, I taught them how to hang a bag. Afterward, we sat around a fire talking about problems that could happen to anyone but most were delightfully "country".

Such as:
I haven't told my dad that my brother knocked up his gf while I was house sitting and they were at Disney.
My brother's wife likes driving her car fast even after her terrible accident.
My youth group's leader almost got arrested at a mall for driving one of the shopping carts that looked like an ambulance.
And so on...

Notes on the blog

If you read the blog and enjoy it, please make an effort to comment. Currently I have no idea what the readers want to hear about. Is it exciting or boring? Would you like me to focus on certain aspects?

If you can't figure out how to use the built in comment functions, you can email the comments to r.henderson.cheeng@gmail.com.

This exchange will help me improve the blog.

Thank you,
Robert "One Speed" Henderson

June 12-14

Getting back on the trail after a wonderful diversion. When you have friends from college or work in a particular area, you're kind of obligated to stop in if you want to keep them as friends (I also have awesome friends so it is always a pleasure to visit and see what they're up to). I was blessed to travel to both DC and Baltimore during my time off.

The first day of my mini vacation started very early. I caught the 6 am commuter train from harpers ferry to dc. Something about getting up with the sun makes me feel industrious and useful. Everything about the weather and the setting reminded me of England. It was chilly, foggy, and drizzling. After sitting at the station for awhile, another hiker shuffled up. Dan's section hike on the AT was completed. He'd done the first half quicker than me by a week. Medical school would start soon for him. He mentioned he had never been to DC but wanted to see the museums. Today was his lucky day - I happen to know a very nice young lady who was already going to give me a tour of the archives at the American History Smithstonian. A quick call confirmed that he could join in.

After an hour and a half train ride, we arrived at DC's union station. Rejoining society with the shoppes and the appealing architecture was a pleasant change. I thought that until I got outside into the chaos that is Washington DC. It was like walking into one of those renaissance paintings with the thousand or so individuals doing crazy, individual activities. Shell shocked didn't adequately describe this emotion.

It seems like DC must have received a good amount of money recently for construction projects. There wasn't a national building around the mall that wasn't being renovated. Even the national mall was torn up and being put back together.

After bagels and a stroll through several construction sites, we arrived at the American History museum. It was a bit interesting getting in with camping gear but doable. The special tour was outstanding. Several other museum staff helped when we crossed into different specialties such as first ladies, political history, war uniforms, and weapons. It feels unreal to see such sacred articles to our country that intimately. For example, I got to see the autopsy kit used on Lincoln. It wasn't two feet from me with no glass between us. I had the opportunity to have an experience most will never have. Thank you museum staff! The only item I touched all day was a Browning Automatic Rifle in the weapons room. That rifle was heavier than i had expected. A note on the weapons room: it looked like the room Neo from the matrix summoned at the start of the lobby fight scene. Guns were everywhere. I liked the other items, but that room was my favorite.

After the tour and some Chinese, Dan and I parted ways - he towards his home and me toward UMBC. I was able to visit most of my old professors and colleagues at the TRC. Unfortunately, my advisor happened to be on vacation. It would have been nice to see him, but I was thankful to see the people I did see.

After visiting my old university, it was time to cram as many friends into the schedule as possible. That was a recipe for a lot of fun and little sleep. Glad I did it though.

Some good sleep prepared me to get resupplied and take a trip to REI (a really neat outdoor outfitter). I can get in and out of a grocer's in twenty minutes, but REI is a little more exciting. My poles were done and my light was malfunctioning. I could have probably went through customer service at each appropriate company, but REI has a wonderful return policy. I wish I was exaggerating when I said I was in the store for three hours weighing the attributes of each potential piece of replacement gear. You put thirty lights with a spectrum of features and prices in front of a hiker and you'll get a conflicted,bewildered hiker. Thank God for store associates. I settled on stronger poles and a black diamond storm. Both are superior to what I previously had. Can't wait to use my new toys!

I tarried long enough that I missed my train. Fortunately, I hadn't bought the ticket yet. Good thing I was in Baltimore where the 200th anniversary celebration of the war of 1812 was happening. Couple that with good friends and there was lots of stuff to do.

After a pleasant night and a relaxing half day of waiting for the appropriate train, I'm back on my trek into the wilderness. Hoping to make it to Ed Garvey shelter tonight. Little bit of night hiking to test my light?

June 11

Woke up with nowhere to go and all day to get there. Harper's Ferry is only about 12 miles from the trail center. At my usual speed, that's about 4 hours. Laundry would take about 2 hours. Thus, I could probably leave by 11AM and still be able to find someone willing to do it within normal business hours. Sometimes relaxed days like that are absolutely lovely. I walked with Medic pretty much the whole way from the trail center to Harper's Ferry. She had only been out a week, had blisters, and was surprisingly not adept at dealing with them. I have no idea why people even market Moleskin. Moleskin is mostly useless to prevent blisters while hiking. Duct tape works so much better. She had heard this as well, but she didn't quite get how to use it on blisters on her toes. The trick is that you want to use little strips of tape wrapped around the damaged toes. You have to make sure that the tape wraps around and ends up back on itself. It will stick to itself much better than it will stick to your skin, most of the time. When she took off her shoes there were gobs of tape wrapped around every toe. Even if she wouldn't of have had blisters, that would have hurt tremendously. If you remember, she helped me with some medication for my shin splints; this time I was able to help her.

We were lost in conversation about relationships, childhood, and exercise when we got to the part of the trail that overlooks the river flowing into Harper's Ferry. We pretty much stopped talking after that part. Somehow nothing else mattered when confronted by something so massively beautiful.

After walking across the bridge into Harper's Ferry and into the woods on the other side, we found ourselves at the ATC headquarters. I took the normal picture in front of the building and got the heck to an ice cream stand in the lower town of Harpers Ferry. Priorities, people. Homemade chocolate birthday cake never tasted soooo good. After a snack, I had to do something about my foul clothing. Luckily I found out that there was a brave and sweet woman who ran the Town's Inn. She would wash and dry a load of laundry for $5. That's a deal.

The benefit of moving slower than I had previously is that you can get caught by those who you passed before. Sometimes their people you would have loved to hike with for an extended amount of time. This was the case with a Swiss couple named Boots and Melody. They are about the coolest individuals I've met on the trail. They both teach school in a rural area of Switzerland. They also both are exceptionally good musicians. Boots plays the guitar and Melody sings. They are more excited about music than about anyone I've ever met. At one point they got off trail, rented a car, and drove 500 miles one way to go see a country concert. If you could have seen Boot's enthusiasm as he explained the performance, it would have stirred something inside even the Grinch. He was talking about goose bumps and chills. Passionate doesn't even touch the level of devotion this guy has to country music in particular. We were at dinner, he sees a guitar, picks it up without asking anybody, and starts playing. It isn't long until Melody starts singing along. This is in the middle of a restaurant with about 20 people. Some kind of moxy. The people loved it. A group of people biking the entire C&O canal were calling out requests and singing along. It was a lot of fun once I got over the awkwardness of how it started.

It turned out to be Melody's birthday. I didn't know this until well into dinner with them. At the end of the meal, I offered to pay for my half, but she declined. She said it was her treat to treat both Boots and me to dinner. It was a tradition she had. Unbelievable. Just lovely people.

Due to their playing, the C&O canal group offered to take them to their hostel. This saved them from walking 2 miles in the dark along roads. Sometimes you give and you get. I got something that night in addition to a free meal, not because I was talented but because I perhaps looked helpless.After giving Boots and Melody a ride, the coordinator for the C&O group asked me where I was sleeping that night since Boots and Melody were staying in a hostel. I think I replied something to the effect of I was just going to illegally camp in the woods of Harper's Ferry because I didn't feel compelled to spend money on a room for the four hours between the time I would go to sleep and get up for the train into DC. The coordinator, a lovely woman and mother, said "NO! I'm a mother and that just won't do. You're going to sleep in our room on the floor." Turns out the C&O people had rented out a whole bed and breakfast. It was a phenomenal help to me. For that reason and because it's fun to tell people about the trail, I entertained all their questions about the trail. I was curious about the C&O as well. Sometimes you get and give and then get more.

Awesome day!

June 10

You ever have one of those days when you couldn't be bothered to get up early even though you had something important to do? I had one of those days today. The blackburn trail center (a free hostel put on by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club) was not what I would say close to Rod's Hollow Shelter. Additionally, I had what they call the "Roller Coaster" to push through on the way to the trail center. The roller coaster is ~13.5 miles of "steeply packed ascents and descents." It's one of those things that thruhikers tend to make a big deal about regardless of how difficult it actually is. The log books in the shelters prior to the roller coaster are full of references to it saying things like "Mommy, please don't make me ride the roller coaster... I'm too scared!" The other end of the spectrum is also present. Some say "Bring it" or "13.5 miles of up and down compared to ~1000 miles? I ain't scared." I was somewhere in between. I wasn't what you'd call worried, but I wasn't exactly sure how my legs would take it. Today would also be the day that I passed the 1000 mile mark and ventured into familiar trail territory. From about five miles before the blackburn center to the Pennsylvania-Maryland border, the trail is familiar from my college days.

As the day progressed and the ride on the roller coaster became less amicable, the temperature rose. For the first time in a long time I could hear my heart beating in my ears. There was a pleasant tightness and warmth in my muscles. It felt good to be doing work again. Drenched in sweat but happy I reached 1000 miles and shortly afterward crossed into West Virginia. About two miles from the trail center, I realized I was indeed tired. Maybe I wan't mentally tired but my feet were. My feet felt like they were gaining weight with every step towards the trail center. It can be very frustrating to realize that even though you are exhausted, you have to push on; you've got nowhere to sleep until you reach your destination. It's a life lesson if you let it be though. Sometimes you have to keep pushing on despite mind numbing fatigue to finish something when you literally have no other recourse. The less you fight the journey or the challenge, the easier it becomes. I stopped fighting the journey and reached the trail center.

The care takers of the trail center, Chris and Caroline, were super nice. The trail center was very clean and inviting mostly thanks to their efforts. They thru-hiked the trail the previous year and wanted to stay close to the trail culture without hiking everyday :D. Sometimes I can't blame them. They offered the hikers that night both a cold soft drink and a free spaghetti dinner. They did make it clear that their generosity was solely funded by the generosity (see donations) of hikers. To keep the generosity machine moving, most offered up donations.

I elected to sleep in the bunkhouse while most other people (DK, Medicine Man, Family Man, and Big-E) chose to tent or sleep on the screened porch. After such a challenging day, I could hardly find enough energy to care where I slept.

Tomorrow is going to be a good day! I get to go into Harper's Ferry, WV. I'm pretty sure I've mentioned Scoops ice cream shop to about 20 people in the last week. I think I'll have to visit that place first thing after I sign into the Appalachian Trail Conservancy's registry. I HAVE to find a place to do laundry especially considering that I am travelling to civilization by train the following day.

Almost historically halfway done!

June 9

Today was purely beautiful. Shin didn't hurt today. I had almost forgotten why I liked hiking. Woke rested after a night on the shelter porch. I was pleasantly surprised that my impromptu bug shelter worked.

Somehow I managed to start hiking by 7. That's quite unusual. My wake up alarm actually went off thirty minutes after I started hiking. Hiked through the best of what the trail had to offer - open, old woods, close forest, and open fields. The sun was shining; the birds were chirping. It was excellent. Even got to meet up with Fozzie from way back in erwin. He's been putting in some seriously impressive mileage. For the time being, I'm content with hiking, period.

Made it to rods hollow at 987. Trying to get to the blackburn trail center tomorrow. I'm looking forward to seeing all my Maryland friends and seeing the smithstonian soon! Official appalachian trail conservancy is going to happen Monday! Almost halfway done. Excellent indeed.

June 7

I slept! I really slept! Well, I only woke up twice.

So many things happened today. I don't know if I should move chronologically or in order of importance. I usually go chronologically. I'm changing it up for this post.

-I ran into my trail dad, in as much as he named me, for the first time in 920 miles! His name is spot. In this case, I am my own trail grandpa. Sort that one out if you have the patience.
-weather warmed enough that my sleeping bag will ne adequate!
-walked in fields of ferns using well groomed trail.
-ace bandaged my lower shin to aid the splint. That might or might not help. I'll let you know.
-got two ice creams for the price of one at elkwallow wayside (some ice too).
-a woman named medic gave me some athletic rub for my shin
-kept the miles low only making it to gravel springs hut at 950.
-it's pleasantly raining with rolling thunder as I write.
-I think my tent is pitched on a 15 degree slope. I'm sliding off my mat.

If importance organized blogs aren't your thing, I'm sorry for your dissatisfaction with this post. Going into and OUT of front royal tomorrow.

June 6

Other than a restless and sleepless night, today was pretty amazing.

I couldn't get to sleep last night because of the worst snorer I've ever had the displeasure of hearing. I slept in a shelter, and I should have known better. I figured out that shelters will always have at least one snorer even if that shelter only has one person.

The culprit happened to be right next to me. Not only that, but he was facing me. If you can imagine a bullhorn, smelling of fish, aimed at your face, you wouldn't be far off. It took a lot of self control not to wind up and punch in the head. His snoring was so bad that I picked up my mat and bag, got my tent, and trudged off into the cold to setup my shelter at 1030pm. I found the worst spot to setup a tent possible, but it was still better than the shelter. The night was quiet but cold after that.

The day started to improve rapidly after I got up. Since I have to do low miles (due to shin I hike about 15 now), I can leave the shelter around ten. This newfound extra time has already taught me that a bagel with peanut butter can be dipped in coffee just like a doughnut. It's pure deliciousness. That finding might have the ability to bring about global peace.

For lunch, I bought a reuben sandwich and sweet potato fries from the skyland restaurant. It was only 0.1 miles off the trail, cheap, and I needed ice for my shin. The sandwich coupled with some coffee about made my day.

After lunch some tourists were acting less than intelligently. A bear was next to the restaurant, and the tourists lined up for a picture. This bear obviously wasn't scared of humans. Also, there definitely weren't any bars between the bear and the humans like a zoo... could have ended badly. That's all I'm saying.

The sun finally drove off the fog! It's about ten degrees warmer now than it was yesterday. What capped this great day was the person who was in the shelter when I got there had a guitar. Not only that; he's a pure legend. He's been playing non-repeat since 5 and hasn't stopped by 915. Most songs are from the 60s. It's awesome! Others have started playing as well adding to the melodies fading with the light.

June 5

Even though I didn't get much sleep last night, I still felt like hiking. My new sleeping bag is a little under-rated for this weather. The weather was chilly and foggy. It might have even been described as claggy. But it was perfect for hiking. Hiking the trail today felt more like walking down a country lane. The usually steep, rocky trail magically transformed into mostly flat, dirt trail. Not a bad section of trail to break in my boots and rest my legs. My shin feels good, but it still keeps flirting with me.

Made it to rock spring shelter at 921.6. There are a lot of people here talking about interesting subjects. It makes writing in the journal especially difficult. I keep getting distracted. Time for bed; I think.

June 4

Back to the trail. Turns out that trail transportation is easier than real life transportation. I'm done with rental cars and planes at least for a while. There are too many variables and they are expensive. Glad to have gotten a break though. Glad she said yes too!

As I hiked today, I felt like I was in a trance. I just couldn't focus. I ended up finding a campsite at a shelter turned maintenance hut at 903.7. I don't know where the biting flies are or why it is as cold as it is. It's about 50 f.