May 28

The bear did not come back to bother us again. At least I think it didn't; I can't be sure because I was very asleep.

The day turned out to be rather interesting as we were to pass one of the main campgrounds in shenandoah - loft mountain. We were also going to pass our first shenandoah hut. The national park service calls shelters huts and pavilions shelters. Why? I have no idea.

At blackrock hut, there was a really interesting spring. A prodigious amount of water was gushing out of a 2" pipe into a small pool, but no river was formed. All the water immediately seeped back into the soil. It looked like it was breaking the laws of nature.

Also, I'm pretty sure Mike acts like bear attractant. We saw two bears on the other side of that spring. I think it was a mom and her cub. They looked at us from about fifty feet, and then they walked off.

The rest of the day was hot and on exposed ridgeline. Even so, it was interesting as it provided many overlooks. The trail passed 70 yards from a campstore with yuengling and Sam Adams summer ale. We stopped in. It also passed within half a mile of the waysides restaurant with blackberry milkshakes and fries. We stopped in.

Once we were back in the woods, we tented under a tree's canopy next to a river. It was a pleasant spot. After dinner we had a small fire in the fire pit. Pro tip: Use hand sanitizer if you don't have dry leaves.

Only trying to make it about 10 miles tomorrow.

May 28

The bear did not come back to bother us again. At least I think it didn't; I can't be sure because I was very asleep.

The day turned out to be rather interesting as we were to pass one of the main campgrounds in shenandoah - loft mountain. We were also going to pass our first shenandoah hut. The national park service calls shelters huts and pavilions shelters. Why? I have no idea.

At blackrock hut, there was a really interesting spring. A prodigious amount of water was gushing out of a 2" pipe into a small pool, but no river was formed. All the water immediately seeped back into the soil. It looked like it was breaking the laws of nature.

Also, I'm pretty sure Mike acts like bear attractant. We saw two bears on the other side of that spring. I think it was a mom and her cub. They looked at us from about fifty feet, and then they walked off.

The rest of the day was hot and on exposed ridgeline. Even so, it was interesting as it provided many overlooks. The trail passed 70 yards from a campstore with yuengling and Sam Adams summer ale. We stopped in. It also passed within half a mile of the waysides restaurant with blackberry milkshakes and fries. We stopped in.

Once we were back in the woods, we tented under a tree's canopy next to a river. It was a pleasant spot. After dinner we had a small fire in the fire pit. Pro tip: Use hand sanitizer if you don't have dry leaves.

Only trying to make it about 10 miles tomorrow.

May 27

Today was a crazy day on the trail...

Left waynesboro around ten this morning. Mike was able to catch his first hitch. Also entered the shenandoah national park!

The terrain for the day has been rather mild, but it has been a good mixture between tall grass and woodland. The only complaints I have today relate to my shin (can't wait to ice it properly during my upcoming break) and the scarcity of water and campsites in shenandoah.

After completing about fourteen miles (ending at 870.5), we found a well used campsite. As Mike and I started cooking dinner, a man named John and a woman named five pair showed up. This is when tonday got special. First, a deer meanders through our camp. She wasn't at all concerned with our presence. Then a black bear started toward our camp. We had seen a sign about nuisance bears earlier in the day.

That bear was not in the least worried about us. It would snort, eat leaves, and then stand still looking at us. Then it would get closer. I grabbed my axe, just in case... maybe. I used the blunt end and started banging trees. That started it moving away, but what really worked was John, a late forties or early fifty year old man, running at it in underwear and boots shouting while waving a trekking pole. It was the most incredible thing I've ever seen!

We expect the bear back later tonight. Half the camp is divided about whether to hang bear bags - 2 with food in tent and 2 without. The idea being bears are ultimately too fearful to make a move on food in a tent...

I write this with sounds of animals walking through the woods around us. We've already seen the deer after the sun has set. Will the bear return? Does it like tent food? At every noise one person invariably asks, "was that you? What was that?" Tough sleeping tonight.

Also, whipper wills are awful birds. I hate them. The woods are full of the up here, and they don't shut up until 4 am.

May 26

After a night sleeping on what we 'think' was brewery land, we started off to find a convenience store breakfast. I say think because no one really explicitly told us where to camp. The breakfast turned out to be excellent except that Mike dropped half of a jam biscuit on his lap. Tisk Tisk.

As we arrived at the trailhead, we found Duke, Keeper, and Pedestrian. It turned out that the Dutch Haus had some trouble arranging a slack pack for them. I guess my trail intuition is getting better. Without slacking it would have been pretty difficult to make the brewery.

Instead of the 16 miles originally planned, Mike and I agreed to travel 18 or 20 to Waynesboro. There was to be an all you can eat Chinese place and a really nice donation based hostel. Both were true! The hostel was superb. We got a shower with a clean towel, a place to sleep with AC, and a free breakfast. All they asked for was a donation. Mike and I gave ten dollars each. The Chinese place had all you can eat sushi and a hibachi grill... don't need to say more.

I'm glad we stayed at the hostel because a lot of old friends showed up. We saw Willie, kerrie, float, SoHo, and lady forward. They apparently caught a ride in from twenty miles south of Mike and I. I hadn't seen any of these people in at least a week, some much longer. It was phenomenal seeing them again. We embraced like old friends. Mike even heard the raisin song. There's a long story behind that. Maybe I'll write out the story when I'm not typing my blog on my phone.

Off to Kroger to resupply and into shenandoah tomorrow.

May 25

Today felt like, at points, like it'd never end. I knew I had the three ridges climb (3k feet), but not really sure how bad it would be. I also knew I only had about 18 miles to walk to meet up with Mike at Reeds gap (837.2). I thought why not start at 10 am? This thought only really factored in the distance not when the hotter parts of the day would coincide with what part of today's hike. Turns out I hit the three ridges climb right about at 2 pm. It was humid and about 85. I deserved it for poor planning. Even though I was hot and weary, thoughts of the devils backbone brewery pushed me on. Apparently they'll collect hot, tired hikers and bring them to the brewery. Also, they'd key them tent on the brewery's land. Good stuff!

As I was sitting at the gap writing this entry, Mike pulled up. We waited for an hour for Pedestrian and Keeper to show up, but they never did. My bet is there was some logistical problem with the day's slack pack. Mike and I got in his truck and found ourselves at the brewery in about ten minutes.

At the brewery we found a pretty decent restaurant. I'd say it was the best in this area. We grabbed some food, some good beer, and pitched our tents in a fresh cut field. It was a milder night than expected. That's a good thing - I'm tired.

May 23

You wouldn't believe me if I told you.

Today started as just one of those days. I started hiking 100% sure I was walking the correct way out of the shelter... and because pride goeth before a fall, I was incorrect. I found that I was cartographically challenged after a mile uphill, in the wrong direction. So, I turn around and find myself back at the shelter (also the wrong way by .2 miles). I turned around again, chose wisely, and put the pedal down. I had to catch keeper for a ride into Buena Vista, VA to resupply (got off the trail at 801.1).

I thought if there ever was a day when I needed trail magic, this was it. After about 15 miles, the trail responded. I found a little box of sodas and snacks. Keeper had also held the shuttle for me.

After resupplying at a friendly but far from adequately stocked with hiker food local grocer, I called the wine shop. I'm not a wino. It just said in the book that the owner helped maintain a trail angel network. This means he knew who to call to find rides and the like. I needed one out of town.

This is where it gets crazy. Chip, an exceptionally generous, older trail angel, was sent my way. Within a few minutes I find that he is actively involved in scouts, is a retired Air Force MP, and works as a volunteer at the habitat for humanity thrift store. He also happened to graduate from winter park high school in 1961. What's the chance I'd run into a fellow wildcat? We had so much to talk about regarding Florida. We talked of a scout camp we both attended named lanoche, of dinky dock, the springs, of a fire tower right off of 441, and of camp wewa. It was amazing hearing all the older details I never knew.

I had mentioned that he was generous. It was almost overwhelming. In addition to good conversation, he bought pizza from a local place called salernos, ice cream from a local shop, gave me a driven tour of Washington and Lee + VMI, invited me to sleep at his home (after checking with his wife) , offered a shower, did my laundry, and brought out the old year book. It was incredible.

It's funny how different the attitude can be between a day's beginning and end. Plans can also change in an instant. People can be genuinely nice. I'm glad I met Chip. I wish he and his wife good health and happiness.

May 22

The thunder heard last night did not remain distant. Two hours of my night was spent watching flashes, counting seconds, and then discerning nearness. The rain that accompanied was kept mostly from my body by the tent (probably one of the better things I spent money on for the trip). Due to how it's constructed, there is a good chance that splattered rain caused by rain hitting the ground will find its way onto my face. Due to the same design, the tent also breathes very well.

After crawling from my waterproof nest, made some oatmeal and instant breakfast. I love that stuff. It's like a centrum with deliciousness instead of a pill. Also made some cowboy coffee... basically boiled water and coffee grounds. Let then sit for five, sip slowly, and then throw (or eat :D) the spent grounds. You can eat them if you have the mind. They don't taste too bad or good, but the caffeine they give is plenty enough to help the morning seem more pleasant.

I then started walking toward the James river fueled up while listening to npr. For whatever reason, on any given day, one can pick up about four different npr stations talking about different topics. Today I learned about the new terrifs (sorry if spelled incorrectly) on Chinese solar cells. It was more a discussion about why or what could happen as a result. It was interesting. After I lost reception on that station, I switched over to another regarding voter registration and the electoral college. Even the morning caffeine couldn't help me from yawning.

Found the James to be muddy and the depth indeterminable. It was a shame because it's kind of a tradition to jump into it from the bridge. It's only thirty feet, but I'm not muppet enough to do it without knowing the depth.

The climbs leading to the shelter (Punchbowl Shelter 789.8) were more intimidating on paper than in real life. The weather being hot and humid did lead to heavy leaking from the pores. Aren't visuals lovely? Promise that'll be the last one... today. Thunderstorms were all around us as we hiked into the shelter, but we were fortunate to dodge any direct contact.

The shelter is right next to a pond. It's the first time that I've heard frogs and crickets in a long time. I miss that about home. Thunder is again present in the distance.

Resupplying in Buena Vista tomorrow. Keeper lent me some mashed taters since I seem to keep succumbing to my bad habit of eating all the food to early. I hear there is a Chinese buffet in town... they better be cooking now in preparation.

May 21

Woke after a restless sleep to complete the journey to marble springs (771.6). Remember those biting insects? They were incessant all night long. Every few hours I'd put on another spray of bug spray, but it was never enough. If you could imagine waking to no-see-ums crawling on your face, through your hair, and occasionally biting. It was in one word - annoying.

However, even with the lack of sleep, today was awesome. The air quality for whatever reason was phenomenal. The colors of the sky popped and the visibility was the best yet. This led to some great photos of the surrounding area. Additionally, the views from black rock and Apple orchard mountain were the best in at least two weeks.

The terrain was unforgiving today. Had a climb of more than 2k first thing in the AM. The rest of the day wasn't much better. It was the second day in a row with a 1k leading into camp for the night. I can't complain too much because my shin splints were silent.

Clouds look ominous and thunder is off in the distance. It's an early night for me.

Before I forget, I saw two families of game birds today - a partridge and a turkey. Both had their young with them. It was pretty neat indeed.

May 21

Woke after a restless sleep to complete the journey to marble springs (771.6). Remember those biting insects? They were incessant all night long. Every few hours I'd put on another spray of bug spray, but it was never enough. If you could imagine waking to no-see-ums crawling on your face, through your hair, and occasionally biting. It was in one word - annoying.

However, even with the lack of sleep, today was awesome. The air quality for whatever reason was phenomenal. The colors of the sky popped and the visibility was the best yet. This led to some great photos of the surrounding area. Additionally, the views from black rock and Apple orchard mountain were the best in at least two weeks.

The terrain was unforgiving today. Had a climb of more than 2k first thing in the AM. The rest of the day wasn't much better. It was the second day in a row with a 1k leading into camp for the night. I can't complain too much because my shin splints were silent.

Clouds look ominous and thunder is off in the distance. It's an early night for me.

Before I forget, I saw two families of game birds today - a partridge and a turkey. Both had their young with them. It was pretty neat indeed.

May 20

I woke early, around 2 AM, to a sneezing wheeze sound followed by steps in the leaves near my tent... they moved toward my hung food bag and back toward my tent. About the first time I've felt uncomfortable on the trail, but I was tired enough that I said if whatever was to get the food, congratulations. I fell back asleep. Later I learned that deer make that noise... guess I was uncomfortable about bambi.

I woke later rested even after the early waking. I made some good breakfast and prepped for an easy day. Walking along the sidecut trail was really picturesque. The weather cooperated keeping the temperature below 80 all day. It was around 60 when I got up the second time.

After finding some EtOH trail magic, made my way to Bryant Ridge Shelter (754.5) with Keeper and Duke. Right shin is still bothering me.

Shelter is an incredible three levels. All joints are put together using old wood working methods. Shelter is by a stream. Thus, bugs of the biting variety are prevalent. Time for deet and sleep.

May 17

First real total zero day! The term zero day refers to the number of trail miles accomplished that day; in this case, zero. There is also something known as a nero, but that is a near zero. Just because I zero'd doesn't mean it was a completely sedentary day. I was to aid Keeper and his father in their efforts to move Allison, Keeper's sister, from her apartment at Radford.

After making short work of the furniture Allison had given to another student in the area, it was IHOP time. Got a large omelette and some pancakes. It was excellent. Afterward, we re-supplied at a food lion.

Apparently I was tired. I woke from a four hour nap right in time for the movies. But before the movies it was burger time. Then it was Avengers time. Right after, it was Miller time.

That's a proper zero. Helping somebody, food, sleep, a movie, and beer.

May 16

The day of the pickup.

Today was a rather easy day on the trail. I woke up from my tent site rested and ready to go. I can't say that for the two people camped next to me. Apparently one couldn't sleep, and at 2 AM thought it appropriate to take some Benadryl... I had my stuff packed and ready to go before either showed their faces to the new day.

I had already scheduled today to be a low mileage day. Only real hilights were to be the Audie Murphy monument, the dragon's tooth, and a ride to my first zero day at Radford university to help Keeper's sister move. Turns out I had a surprise coming as well.

It wasn't but a few miles after I started that I almost fell in a creek off of a log bridge. It actually wasn't really my fault. There are two classes of bridges on the trail - those that were (over)designed by civil engineers and those that were designed by muppets using crayons and a 12 pack of PBR. This bridge fell into the second category. Whoever built the bridge used 2.5" nails to secure 2x4 planks to felled trees. I'm not a civil engineer, but I'm not a muppet either. Hindsight isn't the only thing telling me those nails were too short. Anyway, as I was walking along, the "secured" planks tilted completely off to one side attempting to jounce me and my pack right off. The bridge was rather successful in its attempt. I was only able to save myself from falling ten feet by quickly grabbing a good plank using my hand that was still over the bridge.

The rest of the day was enjoyable, but the dragon's tooth was covered in tourists. It's not a real problem; it's there for all, but it was a bit of culture shock. The day ended with beer, ice cream, and then beer and pizza at Radford. Pretty sure it was a good day. Got picked up at the gas station at Newport Road near trail mile 696.8.

May 19

Started out in Daleville, VA after a peaceful night at the Howard Johnson. Split the room with Keeper and his dog, Duke.

It was a later start than normal, but calls had to be made and I had to plan my rendezvous with my hiking buddy and friend, Mike P. After Keeper and I ate pizza, again, and Duke ate cicaedas, we set off. Duke is comfortable enough with me that he'll follow me sometimes instead of Keeper. I didn't want to upset the owner or teach the dog bad habits so I pressed ahead at a faster pace than Keeper.

After starting and getting further into the woods, it really is apparent how loud a million cicaedas? (Bonus points if you can spell it in a comment) can be if chirping at the same time. To me it sounds like what I'd imagine a whole city of car alarms to sound like. It's like walking through a house alarm's high pitched squeals for hours. Tiresome.

Due to previously mentioned plan, I chose a tent spot at 737.8. The spot happens to be about 40 yards from the blue ridge parkway! Turns out that road loses some intrigue or calling when you're not in a car.

May 18

Today was a day of catch-up and interesting firsts. Everyone got up before seven to finish loading the truck with Keeper's sister's belongings. We then drove up to Daleville to drop our backpacks off at the Howard Johnson. Today would be the first day of slack packing or slacking. This term basically means the heavy stuff gets left at the day's terminus, and you'd only carry snacks, water, and other necessities. I made an awesome day pack using a dry bag and my bear line (50 feet of paracord). Today would also be slightly above 25 miles.

But it was worth every step even with a shin splint in my right leg. There were a ton of vistas off of ridges (including the most photographed on the AT), three decently long snakes, and a wild black bear! It was toward the end of the day when we literally just happened to get lucky enough to see it. It was in a gully and we were on the ridge. It even stayed still long enough for me to take a poor picture.

Even though we slack packed, today was exhausting. Due to the nature of the day's accomplishments, we treated ourselves to beer and pizza. Yum!

May 13

Today was a relatively tame day of hiking. Made it to a camp site at 643.5. Stopped earlier than perhaps expected but weather was supposed to turn foul.

Started hiking out of town on mother's day with a belly full of Hardees. The initial climb out of town was the stuff of hiking nightmares - squeeks and freaks (my pack's name) broke a strap pin,there was poison ivy as thick as Donald Trump's hair, steep, and rockier than I would have liked. Locals also might have been drinking as they routed it. Starting to worry a bit about ticks. Saw one on my leg, but I quickly flicked him off. Nothing deet won't fix :D

May 12

Made it into Pearisburg, VA (629.8). I had said going into damascus that a few things inevitably happened on the way into a town. I'm starting to think that the lack of interest might just be a symptom of delirium from lack of food (i made sure to get extra this time). This town is a little more spread out than usual for a small town, but on the good side, it had a lot of good stuff. I was able to resupply from food lion, gorge at a Chinese buffet, and stay in a very decent motel across from a Mexican restaurant ( included free clothes washing performed not by me but some brave employee).

May 11

Made it to Doc's knob shelter (621.6) after a thoroughly interesting day. Night was very restful but cold. Fell asleep to a conversation about amateur radio licenses and regulations. Kind of sounds like fun, maybe.

I knew the day was going to be interesting because of the way it started. Pedestrian was still asleep when I woke. Even after I cooked breakfast, he was still in his hammock sawing logs. When he did get up, we agreed to meet up at Woods Hole Hostel. It was about 20 miles, and he said before he wanted to at least see it.

Ok. I was off at a good clip, but a huge tree was down in the path. I asked politely for it to remove itself, but it was not to be. I gave it a little help with my axe. I think in the future if it needs to be cleared and I can help, I will.

After a job well done, sauntered my lumberjack feeling self down to Trent's grocery. It seems I had worked up quote the appetite - two klondike bars, four chicken strips, two chicken salad samiches, and some fries. Delicious and distracting. I still had like fifteen miles to go. I put on my music and started trapesing through the trees.

The views from the trail were good, but they were still hazy either from moisture or pollution. About five miles from the hostel, I started to get frustrated. Frustrated with my music. It felt like I'd heard it all many times before. Frustrated with the trail. The most recent parts of VA are not well maintained at all. I started to slip into the mood I was in coming out of the smokies - pissed off and contemptuous.

Arrived at the hostel while everyone was at the communal meal. This was a pet a goat, ride a horse, and kiss a plant type place. Signs about conservation and holistic healing service prices were everywhere. The place started to upset me. Don't get me wrong the people were super nice, but if you want me to pay 13 dollars for dinner, I better not have to make it or clear the table. Also, if I pay for a shower, I'm going to get clean even if it's over the five minute limit. Lastly, in don't tell the guide book that laundry is available if it's a scrub board and a roller wringer. Put something like manual wash.

Best part was meeting a very nice dog, Hazel, who reminded me of a dog I once knew and loved. She was a sweetie. After Amish ice cream, I was the heck out of there. Night hiked to the shelter and made someone think I was a bear.

May 10

Today I was tired. Not sure if I've been this tired on the trail before. Cold rain is exhausting. Staying up late watching movies probably isn't advisable. Ate a lot, plan to sleep a lot, and did not hike a lot. Only made it to Jenny Knob at 599.

May 9

Today was one of those impossibly incredible days, and this is including the fact that it managed to rain for half of it. Let me explain. I'll tell you the details and you can decide...

It rained during the previous night, but the air managed to dry enough after it stopped raining to air out the tent.

The shelter we skipped last night did in fact have a nut job practicing karate and playing with the mice.

The weather cleared halfway through the day leading to magnificent views from the ridge.

The guy we called for a pickup and a ride to his dojo was not of the crazy karate variety. He gave us a free ride, a free place to stay with a shower and a movie projector setup, paid for dinner, and even gave a hiker a gently used backpack. This he was a Brit by the name of Nigel Collins or TruBrit (708-207-6725). He runs Fort Bastian Recreation in Bastian, VA. This guy was a legend - ex SAS, owned his own construction business in Britain and the US, and is attemting to make a hiker's paradise and outdoor center near Bastian.

So,
Good: dry tent, views, shower, pizza, beer, and a movie.
Bad: cold rain and a privy with no walls or ceiling.

Second thought, today was a toss up :b

May 8

Today started with rain and ended with rain. I even had to cook in the rain! :b Other than the weather, today was really pretty. Passed through some hilly cow pastures with some benign but menacing looking bovines, across a good bit of streams, and ended with one of the longest climbs of recent. This chestnut ridge gained about 2100 feet in 4.25 miles. Not necessarily the worst grade, but parts were very steep for a long while. At least they felt like they were to me. I'm not exactly unbiased today as the pads of my feet ache. After passing chestnut knob shelter, (very nice but had what appeared to be a homeless resident) wound up tenting near walker gap (566.5). Trying to make it to pearisburg by Saturday.

May 7

Not a whole lot happened on the trail today. Had a nice walk through both a cow pasture and an obligatory rhodedendron forest. Did see some mountain laurel in bloom for the first time since the pond mountain wilderness. Resupplied in Atkins, VA. Caught a ride into town from Sparky's (retired atc from Arizona) brother.

Hilights from town included me eating a pint of Ben and jerry's fish food, a pint of milk, and a pound hiker burger from the Barn. Best burger I have had in a while! Also, Pedestrian pretty much was courted by an ex-exotic dancer. She tried to win him over with cold slaw from the restaurant at which she currently works. Sometimes weird things happen... after getting back in the safer woods, we made it to a really nice tent site at 548.5. Third consecutive day of having a camp fire.

May 6

Today started off with the best of intentions... planned on at least making it twenty miles, but alas, the trail angels would not let that happen. At first I was set back by a lovely basket of trail magic provided by a Baptist church at VA 670 or Holston River. A hiker had to have help set this up because it had ramen, tortillas, and other such hiking foods in addition to sweets and sodas. Pedestrian (Dan from PA) and I joked it would be the best way to trap hikers if one had such intentions.

After leaving that trail magic, we hoofed it to Partnership Shelter (530.6) after we were told other (better?!) trail magic might be found at that location. There was what I would call a feast rather than magic. One of the thruhiker's (Peppa Boy) parents had set up an amazing spread for hikers. We had burgers, turkey dogs, beans, cold slaw, cookies, carrot cake, and some live appalachian folk music. It was incredible. I think, all things considered, the day was a true success. At this rate, if I keep gorging myself, I'll be gaining weight or getting some sort of metabolic illness by the end of this trip.

May 6

Today started off with the best of intentions... planned on at least making it twenty miles, but alas, the trail angels would not let that happen. At first I was set back by a lovely basket of trail magic provided by a Baptist church at VA 670 or Holston River. A hiker had to have help set this up because it had ramen, tortillas, and other such hiking foods in addition to sweets and sodas. Pedestrian (Dan from PA) and I joked it would be the best way to trap hikers if one had such intentions.

After leaving that trail magic, we hoofed it to Partnership Shelter (530.6) after we were told other (better?!) trail magic might be found at that location. There was what I would call a feast rather than magic. One of the thruhiker's (Peppa Boy) parents had set up an amazing spread for hikers. We had burgers, turkey dogs, beans, cold slaw, cookies, carrot cake, and some live appalachian folk music. It was incredible. I think, all things considered, the day was a true success. At this rate, if I keep gorging myself, I'll be gaining weight or getting some sort of metabolic illness by the end of this trip.

May 5

Woke in the shelter loft to what sounded like a sea squall. It had been windy all night, but this was the first significant precipitation. I rolled over, found the book, and proceeded to finish a good portion. Even after the weather subsided I was hesitant to get up. Sometimes tired legs need a rest. What finally got me moving was an unfamiliar, repetitive scratching sound. I peeked down the ladder to find what I will call a shelter pony scratching itself on the picnic table like a dog. I can't say I trust ponies in general, but this one looked especially untrustworthy. There was no way I was leaving my food bag around this guy.

After getting water, I started my hike into the Grayson Highlands. Once again, it was as if I had ventured into the wilds of the UK for the day. Lush grassland, large boulders strewn into lazy piles, small and medium rocks sprinkled throughout, and walking paths cut into the landscape. I even got a nice mid afternoon europeanesque rain shower.

After the highlands, I entered the woods again to find well graded trail. It's not the lack of elevation change in Virginia, because it still has that, but the lack of rough paths that make it easier. Made it to a tent site at Dickey Gap (516.1).

May 3

Today was a day for the birds or the dogs whichever you prefer. My hiking party has split for the time being due to Willie wanting to wait for Kerry who was slower due to meeting her boyfriend. Started hiking out of damascus around 2 after eating and visiting the library. Didn't expect to get far, but my pack felt like it was made of cement. Couple that with a too close thunderstorm and you have less than ideal hiking conditions. I felt magnetically drawn to ever tent site I passed. Eventually I gave in and tented at 474.1. After such a slow start, I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised that the bear bag took an hour too hang. The rope was too short, the throw a little too short, the limb a little too flexible, or the limb too thin and brittle. Only thing that saved today was a paperback - hitchhikers guide to the galaxy.   

May 4

Today was blissfully quiet. Not that I minded hiking with others, I quite enjoy it, but you miss a bit of the raw nature when conversing with a friend. I didn't see a single other thru hiker the entire day until I arrived at the shelter ( Thomas knob shelter 494.9).

The hiking weather was very pleasant at around 70-75 all day long. The area around Mount Rogers is stupendously gorgeous. I don't know if it was just today or if God made it extra beautiful today, but the slight wind moving through the fur trees or along the balds coupled with perfect lighting was awe inspiring.

I even got a little comic relief from a new thru hiker from Manchester UK. He has the most interesting nervous laugh/ stutter that accompanies every sentence. He's getting fussed at by the ridge runner for leaving the fire unattended after he had dutifully stoked it. It's pretty funny... laugh stutter... I didn't ... light it ... not mine.... laugh stutter ... I'm watching over it... others went to ... stutter laugh... bed. To which the ridge runner stated, " right, I'm going to go put it out then."    :D

May 2

Woke up from a pretty peaceful sleep in my screen tent. No bear problems to report at all during the night. This last fact probably made the shelter dweller happy. Made what was left of my food supply into a single pot and set off into Damascus.

Those ten miles right before town always go the same way.

1. You're moving too fast to really care of notice anything of interest on the trail. What's that - a snail? Nope, no time to look at it... I'm HUNGRY, TIRED, and THIRSTY. Conversations in your head about what you'll eat or drink can become quite animated.
2. The trail smells get super intense. You start noticing the aromatic nature of the place. The flowers' smells really seem to pop. Even trees, which most people don't think have a particular smell, can blend together into the most amazing of fragrances. I don't know if it's because of entering a lower elevation with more flowers or just your mind entering a different mode of thought.
3. Invariably, you'll always hear the whine of a lawn mower... for whatever reason, that sound carries well into the distance. It's always the first sign that a town in close. Someone is ALWAYS waging a war on the ever growing weed. Even though they planted it in the first place.

After getting into Damascus, VA and securing a room for the night with Willie, I went to the post office to locate a veritable treasure trove of goodies my parents sent to greet me in Damascus. I had brownies, cookies, banana nut bread, candies, socks, a ShamWow. First thing was of course first. I went to the dollar store, bought some milk, and started polishing off a good portion of aforementioned cookies. After eating well above the daily prescribed amount of cookies (which is far too low for a long distance hiker IMHO), I  went to a place called Quincey's Pizza. They were to take most of the money I spent in town. Just a really good pizza place with decent prices, good desserts, and $2 Natty Light Sports (22 oz of trouble). The calzones, strombolis, burgers,and salads were all great.

Not too much else to report on today except that I washed clothes shirtless. I was sure I was going to be fined, but I thought I could make the argument that my unwashed clothes were a far greater threat to public decency than my bare chest. Assured of my defense, I started reading an older Time Magazine from 1992 about the rise of Milan. I'd like to visit there one day. The opera house looks astounding.

Off into the wood again tomorrow.

May 1

Remember how I said that the shelter had a view? We were up so high that the clouds were at least a thousand feet below the shelter. Total different view from night and morning. In the night, the lake and harbors on the lake were visible, but in the morning, absolutely nothing was viewable. If you can imagine seeing a cloud where there used to a be a lake! Totally weird.

After examining the map and the elevation profile for the day, I decided today would be a day to put down some good honest miles... and to get as close to town as I could before I ran out of food. I have a nasty habit of getting enough supplies in town for my time out but not budgeting the food stores. Sometimes I will get to the day before town and find myself with little to no real food for the last push into town.

I started off at a blistering pace absolutely destroying mileage. I averaged close to 3 mi/hour for the better part of the day, and I even managed to pass people who left the shelter an hour before I did. Towards the end of the day, at about mile 20, my concentration started to flag, this confounded lack of progress was heavily affected by my mp3 player running out of juice. I'd been relying heavily on that to help me keep a good pace. After almost getting passed by someone I passed earlier, I made it into Abingdon Gap Shelter for the night (456.7).

Apparently no one wanted to sleep in the shelter. This universal choice was likely due to some nasty biting flies in the general vicinity of the shelter. Who was I to argue with the common consciousness?  I set up my tent so that it was only useful to keep the bugs off me while I slept - tied up the vestibules so that the tent body, made of screen, was the only thing between myself and the wilds of the night. Someone who came to the shelter later took quite an initial fright seeing all the bear bags and no one sleeping in the shelter. Since I was the only one who appeared up at the point when he made it in to camp, he came over and asked, "Um, what's the deal with the shelter? Is there anything wrong with it? I see all the bear bags..." I should have messed with him a little more, but I just told him the biting flies were bad earlier. I can be a nice person sometimes.

Off to Damascus tomorrow. Crossing into VA for the first time!