Thru-hike is finished!

Just wanted to add a quick update while I have good wifi. I finished my thru-hike today! 2184 miles from April 3 - August 26. What a ride! None of it would have been possible without the support of my family and friends. Love you all so much. I will be posting more pictures in the near future. Take care all!

Hey, ALL!

I'm entering the hundred mile wilderness with my best friend, Michael Pacella, and my brother today. We're planning on summiting Katahdin early on the 26th! Only 114.5 miles left of this epic journey. There will likely be many river crossing, a lot of mud, and a ton of fun. Thanks for all your thoughts and support thus far. We're not likely to have any service in the wilderness, but I'll see if I can get any service on the mountains. Someone said I might have service on Katahdin. We'll see.

Take care all,
One Speed

Sighted!

One tall, handsome, smelly hiker named Matt at the Appalachian Trail Conservatory Headquarters in Harpers Ferry, VA on June 11, 2012.

The White Mountains!

To call what I've just been through beautiful would be a disservice. It has been about the best week of my entire life. I've been putting in major miles every day, hiking at night most nights, and eating a TON of food! I'm loving the scenery. My favorite parts are usually above treeline. It's kind of magical when you pass through the last wisps of trees into a gentle breeze and great visibility. Above treeline isn't without its perils though. Up there, weather is at best unpredictable. I've had to outrun thunderstorms and hunker down when crazy wind picks up. In some ways it reminds me of the beach with its sun and wind. I just love it... Alright, enough of that. I have a huge slack pack tomorrow (Doing the Wildcats into Gorham, NH). Here are some pictures for your enjoyment!

View on they way to Lafayette Mountain.

On top of Mount Madison!

Sorry for the sparse blog posts, but my phone is having severe issues. I currently will have my real computer every few days as my parents follow me up the AT in their RV.

It appears that pre-season and practice are both over. Today I enter the White Mountains. The "toughest" and most "technical" portion of the entire AT is here. I will report back the actual severity of the mountains afterwards.

I'm going to hike the Whites with Crush, a compsci/math junior from Brown University. I re-met him a few days ago, and have been hiking with him since.

It's truly starting to become a blast. The views are spectacular. The climbs are challenging. The closeness to the goal is almost palpable. I love it.

I'll try to include GPS cookie crumbs of my trip for the rest, but I can't guarantee how that will work. It's the first time I've tried to do such a thing.

Thanks for all your patience.

One Speed

Here is picture taken from the Smart Mountain fire tower. Hope you enjoy the view as much as I did.

July 25

Woke up later than everyone and still made it to the next shelter in better time than the other hikers! They call me sleepy head and such, but if I can hike faster... I don't care. I get to sleep more. It's good with me.

Sleeping tonight at the Clarendon Shelter. Tomorrow I will reach the 500 miles left mark. I've been hearing rumors that Hanover is trying really hard to get designated as the best trail town. I don't know if they'll get it, but SoBos have been talking about all sorts of free or reduced price food places in Hanover. I'm pretty stoked about that.

Today's hike started with a slow uphill that paralleled a beautiful lake for a while. It entered an alpine forest for a while, peaked at a spot with about 100 cairns placed in random locations, and then headed toward a river. Today had a lot of really neat water features. Most notably were a waterfall and a rapidly flowing river. HillHiker and Jersey elected to stay a shelter south of where I ended. I ate dinner with them, had a small nip of Johnny Walker, and headed on. After a quick rock scramble and some neat trail magic (candy and fruit), I ended at the shelter. Mousetrap, Diesel, and I made a huge fire using pine scraps and the better part of a downed birch tree. Best fire thus far.

I'm trying to make it to Killington, VT tomorrow.

July 24

The Green Mountain Hostel was a nice stay. Twenty dollars bought a night's room, laundry, use of a kitchen, a shower with towel, and a pint of Ben and Jerry's ice cream. Even though the storm kept me up most all night, I'm glad I stayed there. I'd rather be inside during a storm of that magnitude than outside. Lightning and thunder were prevalent and close until at least three in the morning. The morning was enhanced by coffee brewed by Sugar.

After eating half a box of cereal and some doughnuts, I started up the trail like a flash in my gaudy trail runners. An hour passed and I found myself in a cloud on top of the Bromley Ski Resort. Visibility was limited due to fog, but it was exhilarating because it reminded me of the Smokies.

The rest of the day consisted of hiking through alpine forests around lakes while dodging the occasional cold rain storm. At one point we ascended along a ridge to find a staggering view of the Taconic Mountains behind us. These are BIG mountains that we were close enough to really appreciate their magnitude.

Tonight I find myself in the Big Branch shelter. We're (Jersey, Hill Hiker, Big Sky, Diesel, and Sugar) listening to a flowing river and hoping to not catch much rain tonight.

July 22

Woke somewhat rested and ravenously hungry after a night in the shelter. It wasn't the bugs that kept me awake, but it might have been the hard sleeping surface. Due to the way the shelter was constructed, the entrance faced directly east. Seeing a sunrise from a sleeping bag is most epic.

Arrived safely at the William Douglass shelter (1640 / 544) after a pretty neat climb over Stratton mountain. Stratton Mountain was that 4k foot mountain I mentioned yesterday. The views from the top were augmented by a fire tower. Usually fire towers are locked, but this one was open to the public. From the top of the tower I could see perhaps the best view of the mountains to come. The caretaker said one could see Mt. Washington from up there... that's right; the Whites are coming! An amateur radio enthusiast was in the tower using its vantage to enhance his reach. His knowledge of the surrounding area proved to be interesting. I'm sure I annoyed him with "What's that?" and "What about that one?"

My legs feel abused. I'm pretty excited about going into Manchester Center to resupply and get some ice cream. If I'm lucky with showtimes, I probably will see the new Batman movie. Can't think of anything I'd rather do for a few hours - feet up, large diet coke, a ridiculous popcorn, and a great movie.

As I flip ahead in the guide book, I can see some pretty big stuff coming. The next month is going to be extremely challenging; I'll try to stay upbeat. The worst of the climbs clear up right before the start of the hundred mile wilderness. In the words of a wise and good friend, "I got this!"

July 21

Thought for this section: Everything looks difficult from far away.

Oh. I guess it really has awhile since my last post. I apologize for that. Since that time though, the trail has turned into what I always dreamed it would be. I'm currently in Vermont at the Kid Gore Shelter (1620.4 / 563.8). For whatever fortuitous reason the trail has matured into heaven. Weather is becoming better - both dry and chilly. I've hit trail magic more than I ever have before. The terrain and views are getting better. The people I've been meeting in town and on the trail are great. Currently, I pass more southbounders than I do northbounders. It's really quite helpful to exchange info about water sources and such.

In the last week, two places I've been really made the previous effort worthwhile - upper goose pond cabin and the Birdcage in Dalton.

Upper goose pond cabin is a small Appalachian Mountain Club owned cabin on Goose Pond. After writing that sentence, I realized the redundant nature of it. The cabin has a caretaker, is free, has a swimming pond, a canoe, and free blueberry pancakes with coffee. It was incredible. I sat on the dock with my feet in the water reflecting on the whole trail. I decided it was places like that that really make the trail fun and help with its completion. This was the place where Mousetrap caught a small-mouth bass with a survival kit. Until that point, I was pretty sure those kits were useless.

The Birdcage is almost a requirement of every through hike. It's basically a free hostel in Dalton, MA run out of Robert Bird's house. His philosophy with regard to the hostel is basically that he'll help hikers in any way that he can. He washes clothes, offers hot showers, gives beds to sleep in, and provides slack packs and other necessary rides. He seems to really enjoy the company of the hikers. He'll allow hikers to stay as long as they need to rest, relax, and heal. It was the first place on the trail that I've felt at home. I really enjoyed a 23 mile slack pack and zero there. It was a good place. It was on my slack pack that I met a southbounder from Plymouth Landing, a subdivision about a quarter mile from my house. It blew my mind. The exchange went like this... I'm from Florida. What part? Orlando. Me too. I'm from a small town called Apopka. ME TOO! I live on Plymouth sorrento rd. Alright, get the heck out!

Today I aim to get 20 miles to a shelter on the opposite side Stratton Mountain. What's climbing a four thousand foot mountain if not pure joy! I am actually really excited.

July 10 - 13

I'm afraid there hasn't been too much to publish about recently. There have been a few funny instances and several observations I will share.

I write this log with a heavy heart after learning that a childhood friend has passed. Robert Foster passed away recently, but I don't know many details. He was a great friend to those that knew him, and I'll always remember the times from TMA. Miss you, bud.

I've been mostly hiking alone during the day. The nights have usually been spent tenting with Jersey and Hillhiker. They seem to be developing a quickness to judge that has not yet been directed at myself. Since they are taking a four day break starting tomorrow, I may not see them again.

It seems like my body is well acclimatized to the heat. I start sweating early and continue all day. Words can't describe how dirty I feel. Even if I start fresh, by the time a single day is done, I am again dirty. My legs seem to be remembering their strength as the hills turn into mountains. I should be in MA by tomorrow and almost into VT not too long after that. Time and miles are flying, but I expect to have some very tough terrain coming my way soon.

Onto animals. Squirrels up here are different. They are the second mist prevalent animal behind the chipmunk. They can come in black. They also have legs as big as a rabbit's. Must be from scampering up the hills.

I used to think black rat snakes were docile, but apparently up here they are different. Connect 4 and I were dancing around a rock while the non docile nature of a rat snake came forth. It was just lying there. We were just passing around. All of a sudden it turned, I swear I heard an evil hiss, and it started chasing and snapping. Stupid snake.

Also, I've been reading a good bit during the hotter times of the day. My current book is Adventure by Jack London. Loving it so far.

July 8 and 9

It seems that your body acts much like a bank. You put in some, and you get out some. Sometimes you can get interest on what you put in such as building muscles. You can also take more out than you put in, but you'll always have to pay it back. The only bankruptcy is death.

The day started early walking past the Bear Mountain Zoo and across the Hudson. I played a while in a spring trying to improve it, but sometimes you just can't fix broken. After hiking some more I ran into Domino and Froth at a roadside deli (probably the greatest things about the North are the delis on the side of the roads). They were eating and soon I was too. I picked up some Ben and Jerry's ice cream, a sandwich, and some pizza. It was awesome. Either Domino or Froth said something about a campground that would let hikers sleep for one night for free. All the stories start benignly. It was a little further than I had intended to hike, but I got some strong legs sometimes.

After hiking and hiking, walking along a road for a mile, and getting directions and a ride to a campground from some nice guys, I find Domino and Froth dancing around a table swatting their bodies. Both have rain jackets on and Froth has his camp mattress wrapped around him. I was standing calmly in shorts and a shirt. My secret was Deet. I asked if they had bug spray and they said no... said they didn't believe it would work... seriously? Two hikers that didn't think bug spray worked, really? I said, "Boys, hold out your hands and rub this on your skin". I just made believers out of them.

The campground facilities were alright but the water had "elevated" sodium levels, the showers looked like they were from shawshank, and there wasn't a single soul working there as far as I could tell.

The next morning, we walked out past this swimming beach on the lake at the campground. It looked run down and abandoned, but it showed a little life here and there. It reminded me of Jurassic Park a few years after the incident (you'll have to bear with me tonight. It's all movies.) After getting back to the trail the life stories of these two individuals began to unfold. Domino and Froth (D and F, respectively) both had known each other for ages. They went to school and college together. It was that sort of thing. D had a degree in information systems and film. He'd moved to LA for a year after school, moved to Korea to teach English, and now was here. His stories are absolutely outrageous. He tells them with such vigor. He'll interject noises and spirit hands when necessary. F is more laid back, reserved, but he was a bouncer for a bit while studying economics. Throughout the day we found ourselves saying "No Hobo" when we were being decidedly more homeless than hiker. For example - drinking a large rolling rock out of a paper bag in front of a deli. No hobo.

At the deli, I met up with Hillhiker, Jersey, Breezy, and Connect 4. We had been separated for a bit, and it was fun catching up. I'm camped amongst that old group of friends at 1431.9. Dinner was like stand up comedy as we each took turns just ragging on each other.

Mom and Dad - I think a good place to meet up would be Dalton, MA on 7/16. There is a Walmart close to make the first night easy.

July 7

21 miles toasted today. Although New York is really pretty, I'm not quite sold on hiking in it just yet. My main complaint is there is not much water. This deficit does bring out the best in people though. I've run into about 4 caches of water in two days. At the caches there are usually many gallon jugs just waiting for a hiker in need. I think it's likely the best trail magic. Also, the shelters in ny are... hmm... no really polite way to say it but terrible. They need some work.

As far as actual hiking is concerned, ny is fun. The mountains are becoming hard again. There are many views. There are even technical rock scrambles. I've even had to remove my pack in a squeeze in a speleological fashion. I've seen more deer here than anywhere else. First time I've ever seen bucks or fawns in my entire life. Saw a pair of each. One buck still had his soft, furry horns. Each buck had two points on each side. Is guess that's a two point buck, but I don't hunt.

Tonight I'll fall asleep just past the Bear Mountain tower to the sounds of artillery fire from west point. Those boys and gals are really letting into something. Tomorrow I will cross the Hudson. We'll see if I'm froggy enough for another 20.

July 6

It's hot, I'm tired, and I'm doing a 20 mile tomorrow. Oh, it's supposed to be hotter tomorrow with a chance of apocalyptic thunderstorms... Oh boy.
Rock scrambles in the open sun were followed by a 1.6 mile walk to resupply in Greenwood Lake, NY. Resupply was followed by more climbing and more heat.

Didn't make the mileage I had hoped (1373.9), but it inspires me to do more tomorrow. It also has me trying to get up earlier tomorrow. Sometimes having a schedule isn't fun, but at least it lets me know if I need to do better.

Night all you AC dwellers ;)

July 5

Today was hottt. Started off the day walking around the catskill national wildlife refuge. This was followed by a mile long walk on an elevated boardwalk through a swamp. The humidity was stifling. It reminded me of summer soccer practices on over- watered grass.Not to say these areas aren't pretty, but sightseeing is a little different than hiking.

After a leisurely lunch which included bananas topped with honey, I sat on a rock next to a spring and made good progress in Lord of the Flies. About getting up time I hear some rustling... Out of I guess the deeper woods comes five bears - a momma and four balls of fur. They were no bigger than cats. That is except the momma. She kept leading the cubs my way, and I started banging on the rock lightly to let her know I was up there. We locked eyes, I told her she had cute babies, and she altered course. Kind of an awesome but unnerving moment.

After pushing past Wayawanda Park, I officially crossed out of Jersey for the last time. It's New York for me for a bit. I'm camped about 0.5 miles past the border. I had planned to camp right at the border but it happened to be a crest line. There are beautiful purple colored rocks splashed with lichen all around. It almost looks martian.

All in all, pretty decent day. Chipping away at the mileage that's left.

July 2

After an exhaustive study, the mosquitoes in NJ are at least as bad as the ones in Florida. Once the sun goes down, you'd better find cover fast! The ticks aren't much better, but deet seems to confuse them enough that I haven't had one bite yet.

Tonight I'm writing from a camp site at the mashipacong shelter (that wasn't an autocorrect fail :b) 1324.8. Recently I've been looking ahead in the guide book to see what's ahead... sometimes you just shouldn't do that. It's a bit intimidating. I won't lie; the elevation profile on a page from Maine made me mutter something under my breath. All in good time though.

Aside from the constant buzz of the winged beasts, the night was very peaceful. I slept very well, much better than in hostels. The reasonable, goldie-locks night temperature helped as well. Since I've been experimenting, I thought i'd mix two hiking styles today - the hike fast and sit long styles. This combination lets me take many breaks and laze about. One of the best parts of the day was sitting on a breezy mountain top, listening to classical music on NPR, and eating a snack.

About halfway through the day, near another lookout tower, I saw a couple from eastern Europe. I had seen them in Deleware Water Gap but just in passing. The female was reserved but friendly and the male was friendly but paranoid about nature. He kept telling me about the "F'ing snakes" and the barrrrrrs. He just hasn't been out here long enough yet. Some comic relief never hurt. I can't be too mean since he gave me a packet of myoplex protein powder. I'm actually looking forward to using that.

After dinner and after convincing myself not to be content with 15 miles, I began to make my way to where I am now. I had to hurry. I didn't have much daylight left. About halfway there I found a gorgeous pavilion at the top of a mountain. The sunsets from up there would have been spectacular. A young couple, a guy in jeans and a t-shirt and a girl in a summer dress with a smile that could light up rooms (reminds me of a couple I used to know not too long ago :D), had the idea to catch one of them. Not wanting to spoil their evening's plans I was off toward the shelter once more. I arrived at the shelter to find some campers and two counselors already there. I don't know too much about them except they have a ridiculous amount of food in the bear box. They seem nice though.

July 1

Today was a pretty awesome day. Not really much I would change if I could do it over again. It was a new month and a new state! I'm currently tenting at 1304.3 in New Jersey (my phone says I'm in Sparta...). Something about today has had me grinning like a little kid all day long.

Taking a zero day at the church's hostel in Deleware Water Gap helped put things in perspective. There were some old AT books sitting on a shelf in the hostel. I almost didn't look through them, but I'm glad I did. One was a collection of memoirs from people that had hiked the trail over the years. A particular narrative by Rybeck? was about a teenager who did the trail during the summer between his junior and senior years of highschool. He had a 70 pound pack with food for up to twenty days at a time was averaging more than twenty five miles a day. Incredible. Just makes me wonder what's my deal is sometimes. This IS an incredible adventure every single day. I'm blessed to have the opportunity, and I'll try to act like it more often :D

The day started kind of late because I was reading the above memoir during breakfast. They say good things come to those that wait... They are correct. Someone popped their head in the hostel right as I was about to shoulder my pack and asks if anybody would like to slack pack ten miles to trail magic. I started singing "These are a few of my favorite things..." I actually didn't, but I said yes please.

The ten miles to the trail magic were inconsequential, but the views in jersey are already better than Pennsylvania. The gentleman that slack packed me put on trail magic once a year right before the fourth of July. They say they like to vicariously through hike. That's alright with me. It was a great time. It really was an absolute blast. There was Ziti, pasta salad, a cake, candy, and drinks. I was there with Connect 4, Bucket, and Breezy. We were all going around swapping hiking stories and laughing. The fun came to an end just before a fast moving thunderstorm rolled in.

After waiting for the lightning to pass, I trekked on further into jersey. About two miles later I came to an abandoned fire tower. Perfect place to take a nap I said. There's nothing quite like napping 75 feet in the air on a platform. It was the most epic nap of my life to date. Rested and refreshed I walked past a swamp and up onto a ridge. That ridge is where I pitched my tent and started a nice fire.

As the sun slipped lower, the winged beasts of the night converged on my camp. By that I mean mosquitos. They might be worse than Florida's. I'll do some statistical analysis to determine which state has worse insects. :)

Regardless, my deet and rain coat combo keep them mostly at bay.

Night, all.

June 25

Having nothing at all to complain about except only getting six hours of sleep, I was off like a flash into a rainy and stormy morning. The weather cleared early to eventually become a very nice day. Eventually, after lazing about in the afternoon sun, I made it to Dan's Spring at 1230.1. Along the way, I found sime awesome, scenic overlooks.

At the previous shelter there was a menu of a place that delivered to the shelter (shelter was about 15 feet off a road and about 0.2 miles from the trail). Some hikers took advantage of this opportunity - Jersey and some boy scouts. The place wanted to charge both groups an extra 4 dollars for delivery fees even though the groups ordered together and would be delivered together. About forty five minutes layer, a really rude woman showed up with the orders. She storms up in a huff and verbatim said, " I work for tips hint hint." Jersey took offense and said something to the effect that his 7 dollar sub was going to cost 15 with tax, tip, and extra fees. They went back and forth a bit, neither really raising their voice, and then she just threw Jersey's money back in his face. Her parting words were if you're that hard pressed, have it on me. I think something else was going on that day...

June 24

Addendum to two days ago: I saw a timber rattler for the first time! He was about two and a half feet of ugly snake in the middle of the trail. It looked at me, I looked at it, and then I contemplated what to do. I just walked around it in a roundabout fashion. I made no sudden movements and neither did he. Unnerving but I was excited to see him. (end of addendum)

Woke after what I wouldn't call a restful sleep. I quickly packed my tent and was off. Breakfast provided via trail magic was just four miles away! I trotted through the woods at a good clip but not so fast as to get lost.

As I sprang from the woods into this parking area the first breakfast sandwiches were being served by two thruhikers from 2007. There were tents, tubs of gatorade, water, and beer(!), snack foods, fresh fruit, and hot meals being prepared. This was hiker nirvana. Since they'd hiked before, they knew the game. It was excellent. I don't think I've ever had a breakfast sandwich that tasted so good (mom and aunt donna, we'll say you can have a rematch the next time I see you!).

The providers were also offering to slack pack people. I didn't give it much though until Gribley (a 21 year old spiritual, young man with an enjoyment of people) came up. The fact that he showed up, as early ad he did, perplexed me. He was one of the hikers that the Doyle from a few days ago had left poorer and less than enthusiastic about hiking out of Duncannon the day that I did. Apparently, he'd been putting in some good miles to meet his dad in Hamburg later that day. Neat. After talking with the trail magic providers, he declared he would leave the bulk of his stuff, have his dad pick it up in the car as he drove to Hamburg, and he would slack pack the fifteen miles into Hamburg. That sounded like a great idea. I asked Gribley if he would mind if I did the same. This is where things get interesting.

Turns out both Gribley and I thought we should leave our cell phones and wallets in the bags his dad would pick up later. I think we just started grabbing weight indiscriminately and tossing it into the storage bags. Oh, to be young and stupid. Equipped with water and snacks, we left.

Those miles flew by. It was really just a blur. There were no views at all. The best part although stupid was downhill, cross country "skiing" the last 0.5 miles down the gravel covered trail. We were giggling like little boys. Yip... Yip... Weeee.

Once in town we called his dad from Cabelas (huge outdoor store - makes Bass Pro shops look small). His dad was stuck in traffic for another 4 hours. Here we were, two hikers with nothing but twenty dollars between us, pretty much possessionless, with nothing to do for four hours. Problem number two became clear when we realized the trail magic people were only stating until about 7. That is one hour before his dad would be there. Uh oh. We had mentioned the hotel Gribley was going to stay out though.

Because this us going to take too much time... long story short - the trail magic was still there when Gribley's dad came through, we waited for his dad at their motel un the lobby eating free cookies and watching fast and the furious, his dad took us both out to dinner, took us to Walmart so we could resupply,offered me a free bed in a 100$/night hotel, and drove me to the trail in the morning before they did their thing. Wow. They were both incredibly kind and generous. Also was able to get a continental breakfast at the hotel. Today was trail MAGIC.

June 23

Today was just pretty awesome. Woke well rested in my tent next to the creek and found it was colder than yesterday. It also seemed to be less buggy. With no good water for nine miles, I moved fast. I could have used the creek water, but it might have had some unsettling chemicals as it was right next to a road. After nine miles I sat right next to a spring for second breakfast or early lunch. It turned out I had two frogs as company. These frogs weren't camera shy either :)

About a gallon and an hour later, I headed to the infamous 501 shelter. The place turned out to be better than any shelter I'd seen in a really long time. It was more a cross between a shelter and a hostel than anything else.

It'd been my plan to move on quickly, but plans are fickle things. Apparently one could order Italian and have it delivered if one wanted. Not just one wanted; two wanted. Starman ordered a pizza and a salad while I  chose chicken parmagiana and a salad. Neither was incredible, but I was happy to have non hiker food. After filling up on water, I was on my way again. I was trying to make 9 miles more.

Plans are fickle thing. Turns out that there was a spring fed swimming hole at 6 miles out. Since I don't often get to play in water, I decided to stay here. Camping at the Hertline camp site at 1193.2. After clearing a tent site of rocks using the blunt end of my axe and a quick dip in the swimming hole, it's bed time.

Dreaming of trail magic in four miles as well as Cabelas and Hamberg tomorrow.

I love Pennsylvania!

June 22

Although today was slightly cooler due to a cold front, the bugs were worse than ever. They were infuriating. Buzz. Buzz. Fly right into your eyes, nose, or mouth. Buzz. Buzz. They were so bad that I took my long sleeve shirt, wrapped it around my head with just my eyes showing, and wore it for a good portion of the day. Even though it was hotter with the wrap on, it was more peaceful. Out here you don't need to be mad when you're walking.

Notable features of the day were a shelter getting refinished and a diversion well at Rausch Creek. A diversion well is a pretty neat manmade construction used to deacidify river water. It acts as a huge filter for a good part of a river, but instead of fine, porous media they used some sort of rock that would dissolve and react with the acid water. Pretty neat stuff!

Had in mind to do 30 or so miles today, but I became less ambitious as the miles accumulated. Made it to a camp site at 1174.8. Only 1009.4 left!

June 21

OToday's word is hotter. Its definition is - a greater degree of heat than some other thing. In a sentence - Today was hotter than yesterday.

With a high of 96, today was uncomfortably hot. I woke up at about six with the light beaming in through the antiquated windows of the Doyle. Since there was no air conditioning, the room was already 85 by six am. Nothing like waking up and sweating in a dusty, old room with a bright light in your eyes. I didn't want to use the communal shower, but I needed to cool down. After showering I headed to breakfast across the street at Goodies. This place was probably the only saving grace of Duncannon. The food wasn't incredible, but the pancakes were gigantic and the price was agreeable.

Starting the four mile walk on the trail out of town was the easiest start out of a town I've ever had. I wanted to get out and never come back. This town was so delightfully terrible that I passed four strip clubs on the way out of town. One claimed to have HOT dancers, ice cream, and BBQ. I believe two out of three.

When I finally got to the woods, it was already in the upper eighties with about 100% humidity. Duncannon has the lovely feature of being right on the bank of the susquehana river. City streets gave way to forest trail at the base of a large hill. Luckily, the best and easiest source of water was at the first shelter. This shelter was only about an hour of hiking up that hill away.

I thought the shelter would be colder than the surrounding area because it creates its own shade. I was wrong. I was really wrong. It was hotter in there by a lot. I literally jumped out of the shelter and setup my tent in the shade to guard against the bugs.

Things got really lazy after that. I stayed there four hours talking with Overdrive, Peach, and TaterTot, ate twice, played in the spring water, and took a small nap. Overdrive is a thirty some musician and pharmacist from Daytona Beach, Florida. I don't know too much about Peach other than she's a really nice, genuine soul. She's also super athletic. I think she swam in college? TaterTot is a woman in her late twenties with a bad case of wanderlust. She quit her art museum job to hike the trail, but the AT isn't her first big adventure. She's hiked across England, been to south America, and went on a research ship to Antarctica. She's pretty cool, but even with her experiences it seems we've nothing to talk about. It's the first time on the trail that I haven't been able to freely converse with a person about at least one thing.

After waiting most of the heat out I set off towards the next shelter. About a mile before the shelter, a generous afternoon hiker offered me some water and food as he got in his vehicle to leave. I took the water graciously, but now I wish I'd have taken the food too. :) Water was more important though because the shelter where I spent the night had a very steep walk down to get water. Due to his generosity, I did not have to get water from that shelter.

Shared the shelter with TaterTot and two ex-military looking fellows. Couldn't take them too serious because one had a dog named Jasmine.

Not exactly killer mileage, but I made it to Peters mountain shelter at 1152.1; however I did get out of Duncannon. That was enough for me.

June 15

I didn't quite make it to Ed Garvey shelter, but my new light and sticks weren't at fault. I think I realized that even if I made it to the shelter water would still be far away. For this reason and the fact that a breakfast on some cliffs would be epic, I decided to setup my tent at weverton cliffs.

Once I arrived at the cliffs, I did a quick sweep with my light to determine if I was alone on the cliff. I was not. There was a tent already there. To be respectful, I set up my tent far away from the other tent. Just because there was another person present didn't mean I wasn't going to visit the cliffs at night. I think it was at that moment when I invited some excitement into my night.

Obviously, if there is another person in a tent at eleven in the night, you'd use a soft step and a dim light to traverse the campsite. I did exactly this, but after ten steps, I hear a faint, repetitive whistle. It might have even had a slight quiver in its note. Deciding I had given the tent occupants a fright I called out, " hello, are you alright?" Immediately I hear a reply from inside the tent. She, a teacher in her late twenties, said, "ohmygosh! I'm so glad you weren't a bear." From then until about 12:30, we conversed about the trail and travel. It was pretty neat, but I was super tired from my travels. After politely excusing myself, I took my leave and went to sleep.  

Since I was unable to partake in the official Maryland challenge (do all of Maryland in one day approx. 40 miles), I decided I'd do what I used to do in a weekend in a day. I was going to make it to ensign cowall shelter from the weverton cliffs. That's about 27 miles. I was able to finish right as the sun was setting. Something about that day made me ravenously hungry. I've got to stop eating all my snacks ahead of time!

I was excited to stay in the shelter for the first time in about forever. The reason being was there was a very respectful and nice section hiking family - grandad, grandmom, mother, and two sons. Dad had had minor surgery recently and could not make it. They were all delightful. Each had a real personality. This is in direct opposition to most thru hikers. That lot is either asleep by 6pm or loud and boisterous. They also tend to take on larger than life personas. You know the deal... talking about themselves in third person and their trail reputation. Sometimes it can be humorous to hear, "Yep, that's what they say about old 'own trail name'." Sometimes you can only wag your head.

June 16

Today I officially became a Yankee. A fellow implored me to return, but I said, "Nay, my good sir, I'm a yank through and through until I'm done. Long live the Union and to the worms be Jefferson Davis." Basically, I crossed into Pennsylvania from Maryland. At the same time I also crossed the Mason Dixon line. Some hiking couple did offer me trail magic if I walked back about a mile; I politely declined.

It was sometime decided I'd try to make Duncannon, PA by the 19th. It's a bit ambitious but doable. Maybe I felt extra energy from the fresh fruit the weekend hikers left me. I don't quite know.

Made it a little past rocky mountain shelters today (1073.6). I've found I can do more miles in a day if I do four to five two hour shifts. The lengthening summer days aid my quest. It wasn't long after I started to set my tent up that two people started to venture down the trail - a youngish girl about 19, Rachel, and an older lady, Cindy. It was their first day out, and they were uneducated in the field of bear bagging. This fact rattled their very beings since they had seen a "huge" black bear a mile back. Because I could help, I taught them how to hang a bag. Afterward, we sat around a fire talking about problems that could happen to anyone but most were delightfully "country".

Such as:
I haven't told my dad that my brother knocked up his gf while I was house sitting and they were at Disney.
My brother's wife likes driving her car fast even after her terrible accident.
My youth group's leader almost got arrested at a mall for driving one of the shopping carts that looked like an ambulance.
And so on...

Notes on the blog

If you read the blog and enjoy it, please make an effort to comment. Currently I have no idea what the readers want to hear about. Is it exciting or boring? Would you like me to focus on certain aspects?

If you can't figure out how to use the built in comment functions, you can email the comments to r.henderson.cheeng@gmail.com.

This exchange will help me improve the blog.

Thank you,
Robert "One Speed" Henderson

June 12-14

Getting back on the trail after a wonderful diversion. When you have friends from college or work in a particular area, you're kind of obligated to stop in if you want to keep them as friends (I also have awesome friends so it is always a pleasure to visit and see what they're up to). I was blessed to travel to both DC and Baltimore during my time off.

The first day of my mini vacation started very early. I caught the 6 am commuter train from harpers ferry to dc. Something about getting up with the sun makes me feel industrious and useful. Everything about the weather and the setting reminded me of England. It was chilly, foggy, and drizzling. After sitting at the station for awhile, another hiker shuffled up. Dan's section hike on the AT was completed. He'd done the first half quicker than me by a week. Medical school would start soon for him. He mentioned he had never been to DC but wanted to see the museums. Today was his lucky day - I happen to know a very nice young lady who was already going to give me a tour of the archives at the American History Smithstonian. A quick call confirmed that he could join in.

After an hour and a half train ride, we arrived at DC's union station. Rejoining society with the shoppes and the appealing architecture was a pleasant change. I thought that until I got outside into the chaos that is Washington DC. It was like walking into one of those renaissance paintings with the thousand or so individuals doing crazy, individual activities. Shell shocked didn't adequately describe this emotion.

It seems like DC must have received a good amount of money recently for construction projects. There wasn't a national building around the mall that wasn't being renovated. Even the national mall was torn up and being put back together.

After bagels and a stroll through several construction sites, we arrived at the American History museum. It was a bit interesting getting in with camping gear but doable. The special tour was outstanding. Several other museum staff helped when we crossed into different specialties such as first ladies, political history, war uniforms, and weapons. It feels unreal to see such sacred articles to our country that intimately. For example, I got to see the autopsy kit used on Lincoln. It wasn't two feet from me with no glass between us. I had the opportunity to have an experience most will never have. Thank you museum staff! The only item I touched all day was a Browning Automatic Rifle in the weapons room. That rifle was heavier than i had expected. A note on the weapons room: it looked like the room Neo from the matrix summoned at the start of the lobby fight scene. Guns were everywhere. I liked the other items, but that room was my favorite.

After the tour and some Chinese, Dan and I parted ways - he towards his home and me toward UMBC. I was able to visit most of my old professors and colleagues at the TRC. Unfortunately, my advisor happened to be on vacation. It would have been nice to see him, but I was thankful to see the people I did see.

After visiting my old university, it was time to cram as many friends into the schedule as possible. That was a recipe for a lot of fun and little sleep. Glad I did it though.

Some good sleep prepared me to get resupplied and take a trip to REI (a really neat outdoor outfitter). I can get in and out of a grocer's in twenty minutes, but REI is a little more exciting. My poles were done and my light was malfunctioning. I could have probably went through customer service at each appropriate company, but REI has a wonderful return policy. I wish I was exaggerating when I said I was in the store for three hours weighing the attributes of each potential piece of replacement gear. You put thirty lights with a spectrum of features and prices in front of a hiker and you'll get a conflicted,bewildered hiker. Thank God for store associates. I settled on stronger poles and a black diamond storm. Both are superior to what I previously had. Can't wait to use my new toys!

I tarried long enough that I missed my train. Fortunately, I hadn't bought the ticket yet. Good thing I was in Baltimore where the 200th anniversary celebration of the war of 1812 was happening. Couple that with good friends and there was lots of stuff to do.

After a pleasant night and a relaxing half day of waiting for the appropriate train, I'm back on my trek into the wilderness. Hoping to make it to Ed Garvey shelter tonight. Little bit of night hiking to test my light?

June 11

Woke up with nowhere to go and all day to get there. Harper's Ferry is only about 12 miles from the trail center. At my usual speed, that's about 4 hours. Laundry would take about 2 hours. Thus, I could probably leave by 11AM and still be able to find someone willing to do it within normal business hours. Sometimes relaxed days like that are absolutely lovely. I walked with Medic pretty much the whole way from the trail center to Harper's Ferry. She had only been out a week, had blisters, and was surprisingly not adept at dealing with them. I have no idea why people even market Moleskin. Moleskin is mostly useless to prevent blisters while hiking. Duct tape works so much better. She had heard this as well, but she didn't quite get how to use it on blisters on her toes. The trick is that you want to use little strips of tape wrapped around the damaged toes. You have to make sure that the tape wraps around and ends up back on itself. It will stick to itself much better than it will stick to your skin, most of the time. When she took off her shoes there were gobs of tape wrapped around every toe. Even if she wouldn't of have had blisters, that would have hurt tremendously. If you remember, she helped me with some medication for my shin splints; this time I was able to help her.

We were lost in conversation about relationships, childhood, and exercise when we got to the part of the trail that overlooks the river flowing into Harper's Ferry. We pretty much stopped talking after that part. Somehow nothing else mattered when confronted by something so massively beautiful.

After walking across the bridge into Harper's Ferry and into the woods on the other side, we found ourselves at the ATC headquarters. I took the normal picture in front of the building and got the heck to an ice cream stand in the lower town of Harpers Ferry. Priorities, people. Homemade chocolate birthday cake never tasted soooo good. After a snack, I had to do something about my foul clothing. Luckily I found out that there was a brave and sweet woman who ran the Town's Inn. She would wash and dry a load of laundry for $5. That's a deal.

The benefit of moving slower than I had previously is that you can get caught by those who you passed before. Sometimes their people you would have loved to hike with for an extended amount of time. This was the case with a Swiss couple named Boots and Melody. They are about the coolest individuals I've met on the trail. They both teach school in a rural area of Switzerland. They also both are exceptionally good musicians. Boots plays the guitar and Melody sings. They are more excited about music than about anyone I've ever met. At one point they got off trail, rented a car, and drove 500 miles one way to go see a country concert. If you could have seen Boot's enthusiasm as he explained the performance, it would have stirred something inside even the Grinch. He was talking about goose bumps and chills. Passionate doesn't even touch the level of devotion this guy has to country music in particular. We were at dinner, he sees a guitar, picks it up without asking anybody, and starts playing. It isn't long until Melody starts singing along. This is in the middle of a restaurant with about 20 people. Some kind of moxy. The people loved it. A group of people biking the entire C&O canal were calling out requests and singing along. It was a lot of fun once I got over the awkwardness of how it started.

It turned out to be Melody's birthday. I didn't know this until well into dinner with them. At the end of the meal, I offered to pay for my half, but she declined. She said it was her treat to treat both Boots and me to dinner. It was a tradition she had. Unbelievable. Just lovely people.

Due to their playing, the C&O canal group offered to take them to their hostel. This saved them from walking 2 miles in the dark along roads. Sometimes you give and you get. I got something that night in addition to a free meal, not because I was talented but because I perhaps looked helpless.After giving Boots and Melody a ride, the coordinator for the C&O group asked me where I was sleeping that night since Boots and Melody were staying in a hostel. I think I replied something to the effect of I was just going to illegally camp in the woods of Harper's Ferry because I didn't feel compelled to spend money on a room for the four hours between the time I would go to sleep and get up for the train into DC. The coordinator, a lovely woman and mother, said "NO! I'm a mother and that just won't do. You're going to sleep in our room on the floor." Turns out the C&O people had rented out a whole bed and breakfast. It was a phenomenal help to me. For that reason and because it's fun to tell people about the trail, I entertained all their questions about the trail. I was curious about the C&O as well. Sometimes you get and give and then get more.

Awesome day!

June 10

You ever have one of those days when you couldn't be bothered to get up early even though you had something important to do? I had one of those days today. The blackburn trail center (a free hostel put on by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club) was not what I would say close to Rod's Hollow Shelter. Additionally, I had what they call the "Roller Coaster" to push through on the way to the trail center. The roller coaster is ~13.5 miles of "steeply packed ascents and descents." It's one of those things that thruhikers tend to make a big deal about regardless of how difficult it actually is. The log books in the shelters prior to the roller coaster are full of references to it saying things like "Mommy, please don't make me ride the roller coaster... I'm too scared!" The other end of the spectrum is also present. Some say "Bring it" or "13.5 miles of up and down compared to ~1000 miles? I ain't scared." I was somewhere in between. I wasn't what you'd call worried, but I wasn't exactly sure how my legs would take it. Today would also be the day that I passed the 1000 mile mark and ventured into familiar trail territory. From about five miles before the blackburn center to the Pennsylvania-Maryland border, the trail is familiar from my college days.

As the day progressed and the ride on the roller coaster became less amicable, the temperature rose. For the first time in a long time I could hear my heart beating in my ears. There was a pleasant tightness and warmth in my muscles. It felt good to be doing work again. Drenched in sweat but happy I reached 1000 miles and shortly afterward crossed into West Virginia. About two miles from the trail center, I realized I was indeed tired. Maybe I wan't mentally tired but my feet were. My feet felt like they were gaining weight with every step towards the trail center. It can be very frustrating to realize that even though you are exhausted, you have to push on; you've got nowhere to sleep until you reach your destination. It's a life lesson if you let it be though. Sometimes you have to keep pushing on despite mind numbing fatigue to finish something when you literally have no other recourse. The less you fight the journey or the challenge, the easier it becomes. I stopped fighting the journey and reached the trail center.

The care takers of the trail center, Chris and Caroline, were super nice. The trail center was very clean and inviting mostly thanks to their efforts. They thru-hiked the trail the previous year and wanted to stay close to the trail culture without hiking everyday :D. Sometimes I can't blame them. They offered the hikers that night both a cold soft drink and a free spaghetti dinner. They did make it clear that their generosity was solely funded by the generosity (see donations) of hikers. To keep the generosity machine moving, most offered up donations.

I elected to sleep in the bunkhouse while most other people (DK, Medicine Man, Family Man, and Big-E) chose to tent or sleep on the screened porch. After such a challenging day, I could hardly find enough energy to care where I slept.

Tomorrow is going to be a good day! I get to go into Harper's Ferry, WV. I'm pretty sure I've mentioned Scoops ice cream shop to about 20 people in the last week. I think I'll have to visit that place first thing after I sign into the Appalachian Trail Conservancy's registry. I HAVE to find a place to do laundry especially considering that I am travelling to civilization by train the following day.

Almost historically halfway done!

June 9

Today was purely beautiful. Shin didn't hurt today. I had almost forgotten why I liked hiking. Woke rested after a night on the shelter porch. I was pleasantly surprised that my impromptu bug shelter worked.

Somehow I managed to start hiking by 7. That's quite unusual. My wake up alarm actually went off thirty minutes after I started hiking. Hiked through the best of what the trail had to offer - open, old woods, close forest, and open fields. The sun was shining; the birds were chirping. It was excellent. Even got to meet up with Fozzie from way back in erwin. He's been putting in some seriously impressive mileage. For the time being, I'm content with hiking, period.

Made it to rods hollow at 987. Trying to get to the blackburn trail center tomorrow. I'm looking forward to seeing all my Maryland friends and seeing the smithstonian soon! Official appalachian trail conservancy is going to happen Monday! Almost halfway done. Excellent indeed.

June 7

I slept! I really slept! Well, I only woke up twice.

So many things happened today. I don't know if I should move chronologically or in order of importance. I usually go chronologically. I'm changing it up for this post.

-I ran into my trail dad, in as much as he named me, for the first time in 920 miles! His name is spot. In this case, I am my own trail grandpa. Sort that one out if you have the patience.
-weather warmed enough that my sleeping bag will ne adequate!
-walked in fields of ferns using well groomed trail.
-ace bandaged my lower shin to aid the splint. That might or might not help. I'll let you know.
-got two ice creams for the price of one at elkwallow wayside (some ice too).
-a woman named medic gave me some athletic rub for my shin
-kept the miles low only making it to gravel springs hut at 950.
-it's pleasantly raining with rolling thunder as I write.
-I think my tent is pitched on a 15 degree slope. I'm sliding off my mat.

If importance organized blogs aren't your thing, I'm sorry for your dissatisfaction with this post. Going into and OUT of front royal tomorrow.

June 6

Other than a restless and sleepless night, today was pretty amazing.

I couldn't get to sleep last night because of the worst snorer I've ever had the displeasure of hearing. I slept in a shelter, and I should have known better. I figured out that shelters will always have at least one snorer even if that shelter only has one person.

The culprit happened to be right next to me. Not only that, but he was facing me. If you can imagine a bullhorn, smelling of fish, aimed at your face, you wouldn't be far off. It took a lot of self control not to wind up and punch in the head. His snoring was so bad that I picked up my mat and bag, got my tent, and trudged off into the cold to setup my shelter at 1030pm. I found the worst spot to setup a tent possible, but it was still better than the shelter. The night was quiet but cold after that.

The day started to improve rapidly after I got up. Since I have to do low miles (due to shin I hike about 15 now), I can leave the shelter around ten. This newfound extra time has already taught me that a bagel with peanut butter can be dipped in coffee just like a doughnut. It's pure deliciousness. That finding might have the ability to bring about global peace.

For lunch, I bought a reuben sandwich and sweet potato fries from the skyland restaurant. It was only 0.1 miles off the trail, cheap, and I needed ice for my shin. The sandwich coupled with some coffee about made my day.

After lunch some tourists were acting less than intelligently. A bear was next to the restaurant, and the tourists lined up for a picture. This bear obviously wasn't scared of humans. Also, there definitely weren't any bars between the bear and the humans like a zoo... could have ended badly. That's all I'm saying.

The sun finally drove off the fog! It's about ten degrees warmer now than it was yesterday. What capped this great day was the person who was in the shelter when I got there had a guitar. Not only that; he's a pure legend. He's been playing non-repeat since 5 and hasn't stopped by 915. Most songs are from the 60s. It's awesome! Others have started playing as well adding to the melodies fading with the light.

June 5

Even though I didn't get much sleep last night, I still felt like hiking. My new sleeping bag is a little under-rated for this weather. The weather was chilly and foggy. It might have even been described as claggy. But it was perfect for hiking. Hiking the trail today felt more like walking down a country lane. The usually steep, rocky trail magically transformed into mostly flat, dirt trail. Not a bad section of trail to break in my boots and rest my legs. My shin feels good, but it still keeps flirting with me.

Made it to rock spring shelter at 921.6. There are a lot of people here talking about interesting subjects. It makes writing in the journal especially difficult. I keep getting distracted. Time for bed; I think.

June 4

Back to the trail. Turns out that trail transportation is easier than real life transportation. I'm done with rental cars and planes at least for a while. There are too many variables and they are expensive. Glad to have gotten a break though. Glad she said yes too!

As I hiked today, I felt like I was in a trance. I just couldn't focus. I ended up finding a campsite at a shelter turned maintenance hut at 903.7. I don't know where the biting flies are or why it is as cold as it is. It's about 50 f.

May 28

The bear did not come back to bother us again. At least I think it didn't; I can't be sure because I was very asleep.

The day turned out to be rather interesting as we were to pass one of the main campgrounds in shenandoah - loft mountain. We were also going to pass our first shenandoah hut. The national park service calls shelters huts and pavilions shelters. Why? I have no idea.

At blackrock hut, there was a really interesting spring. A prodigious amount of water was gushing out of a 2" pipe into a small pool, but no river was formed. All the water immediately seeped back into the soil. It looked like it was breaking the laws of nature.

Also, I'm pretty sure Mike acts like bear attractant. We saw two bears on the other side of that spring. I think it was a mom and her cub. They looked at us from about fifty feet, and then they walked off.

The rest of the day was hot and on exposed ridgeline. Even so, it was interesting as it provided many overlooks. The trail passed 70 yards from a campstore with yuengling and Sam Adams summer ale. We stopped in. It also passed within half a mile of the waysides restaurant with blackberry milkshakes and fries. We stopped in.

Once we were back in the woods, we tented under a tree's canopy next to a river. It was a pleasant spot. After dinner we had a small fire in the fire pit. Pro tip: Use hand sanitizer if you don't have dry leaves.

Only trying to make it about 10 miles tomorrow.

May 28

The bear did not come back to bother us again. At least I think it didn't; I can't be sure because I was very asleep.

The day turned out to be rather interesting as we were to pass one of the main campgrounds in shenandoah - loft mountain. We were also going to pass our first shenandoah hut. The national park service calls shelters huts and pavilions shelters. Why? I have no idea.

At blackrock hut, there was a really interesting spring. A prodigious amount of water was gushing out of a 2" pipe into a small pool, but no river was formed. All the water immediately seeped back into the soil. It looked like it was breaking the laws of nature.

Also, I'm pretty sure Mike acts like bear attractant. We saw two bears on the other side of that spring. I think it was a mom and her cub. They looked at us from about fifty feet, and then they walked off.

The rest of the day was hot and on exposed ridgeline. Even so, it was interesting as it provided many overlooks. The trail passed 70 yards from a campstore with yuengling and Sam Adams summer ale. We stopped in. It also passed within half a mile of the waysides restaurant with blackberry milkshakes and fries. We stopped in.

Once we were back in the woods, we tented under a tree's canopy next to a river. It was a pleasant spot. After dinner we had a small fire in the fire pit. Pro tip: Use hand sanitizer if you don't have dry leaves.

Only trying to make it about 10 miles tomorrow.

May 27

Today was a crazy day on the trail...

Left waynesboro around ten this morning. Mike was able to catch his first hitch. Also entered the shenandoah national park!

The terrain for the day has been rather mild, but it has been a good mixture between tall grass and woodland. The only complaints I have today relate to my shin (can't wait to ice it properly during my upcoming break) and the scarcity of water and campsites in shenandoah.

After completing about fourteen miles (ending at 870.5), we found a well used campsite. As Mike and I started cooking dinner, a man named John and a woman named five pair showed up. This is when tonday got special. First, a deer meanders through our camp. She wasn't at all concerned with our presence. Then a black bear started toward our camp. We had seen a sign about nuisance bears earlier in the day.

That bear was not in the least worried about us. It would snort, eat leaves, and then stand still looking at us. Then it would get closer. I grabbed my axe, just in case... maybe. I used the blunt end and started banging trees. That started it moving away, but what really worked was John, a late forties or early fifty year old man, running at it in underwear and boots shouting while waving a trekking pole. It was the most incredible thing I've ever seen!

We expect the bear back later tonight. Half the camp is divided about whether to hang bear bags - 2 with food in tent and 2 without. The idea being bears are ultimately too fearful to make a move on food in a tent...

I write this with sounds of animals walking through the woods around us. We've already seen the deer after the sun has set. Will the bear return? Does it like tent food? At every noise one person invariably asks, "was that you? What was that?" Tough sleeping tonight.

Also, whipper wills are awful birds. I hate them. The woods are full of the up here, and they don't shut up until 4 am.

May 26

After a night sleeping on what we 'think' was brewery land, we started off to find a convenience store breakfast. I say think because no one really explicitly told us where to camp. The breakfast turned out to be excellent except that Mike dropped half of a jam biscuit on his lap. Tisk Tisk.

As we arrived at the trailhead, we found Duke, Keeper, and Pedestrian. It turned out that the Dutch Haus had some trouble arranging a slack pack for them. I guess my trail intuition is getting better. Without slacking it would have been pretty difficult to make the brewery.

Instead of the 16 miles originally planned, Mike and I agreed to travel 18 or 20 to Waynesboro. There was to be an all you can eat Chinese place and a really nice donation based hostel. Both were true! The hostel was superb. We got a shower with a clean towel, a place to sleep with AC, and a free breakfast. All they asked for was a donation. Mike and I gave ten dollars each. The Chinese place had all you can eat sushi and a hibachi grill... don't need to say more.

I'm glad we stayed at the hostel because a lot of old friends showed up. We saw Willie, kerrie, float, SoHo, and lady forward. They apparently caught a ride in from twenty miles south of Mike and I. I hadn't seen any of these people in at least a week, some much longer. It was phenomenal seeing them again. We embraced like old friends. Mike even heard the raisin song. There's a long story behind that. Maybe I'll write out the story when I'm not typing my blog on my phone.

Off to Kroger to resupply and into shenandoah tomorrow.

May 25

Today felt like, at points, like it'd never end. I knew I had the three ridges climb (3k feet), but not really sure how bad it would be. I also knew I only had about 18 miles to walk to meet up with Mike at Reeds gap (837.2). I thought why not start at 10 am? This thought only really factored in the distance not when the hotter parts of the day would coincide with what part of today's hike. Turns out I hit the three ridges climb right about at 2 pm. It was humid and about 85. I deserved it for poor planning. Even though I was hot and weary, thoughts of the devils backbone brewery pushed me on. Apparently they'll collect hot, tired hikers and bring them to the brewery. Also, they'd key them tent on the brewery's land. Good stuff!

As I was sitting at the gap writing this entry, Mike pulled up. We waited for an hour for Pedestrian and Keeper to show up, but they never did. My bet is there was some logistical problem with the day's slack pack. Mike and I got in his truck and found ourselves at the brewery in about ten minutes.

At the brewery we found a pretty decent restaurant. I'd say it was the best in this area. We grabbed some food, some good beer, and pitched our tents in a fresh cut field. It was a milder night than expected. That's a good thing - I'm tired.

May 23

You wouldn't believe me if I told you.

Today started as just one of those days. I started hiking 100% sure I was walking the correct way out of the shelter... and because pride goeth before a fall, I was incorrect. I found that I was cartographically challenged after a mile uphill, in the wrong direction. So, I turn around and find myself back at the shelter (also the wrong way by .2 miles). I turned around again, chose wisely, and put the pedal down. I had to catch keeper for a ride into Buena Vista, VA to resupply (got off the trail at 801.1).

I thought if there ever was a day when I needed trail magic, this was it. After about 15 miles, the trail responded. I found a little box of sodas and snacks. Keeper had also held the shuttle for me.

After resupplying at a friendly but far from adequately stocked with hiker food local grocer, I called the wine shop. I'm not a wino. It just said in the book that the owner helped maintain a trail angel network. This means he knew who to call to find rides and the like. I needed one out of town.

This is where it gets crazy. Chip, an exceptionally generous, older trail angel, was sent my way. Within a few minutes I find that he is actively involved in scouts, is a retired Air Force MP, and works as a volunteer at the habitat for humanity thrift store. He also happened to graduate from winter park high school in 1961. What's the chance I'd run into a fellow wildcat? We had so much to talk about regarding Florida. We talked of a scout camp we both attended named lanoche, of dinky dock, the springs, of a fire tower right off of 441, and of camp wewa. It was amazing hearing all the older details I never knew.

I had mentioned that he was generous. It was almost overwhelming. In addition to good conversation, he bought pizza from a local place called salernos, ice cream from a local shop, gave me a driven tour of Washington and Lee + VMI, invited me to sleep at his home (after checking with his wife) , offered a shower, did my laundry, and brought out the old year book. It was incredible.

It's funny how different the attitude can be between a day's beginning and end. Plans can also change in an instant. People can be genuinely nice. I'm glad I met Chip. I wish he and his wife good health and happiness.

May 22

The thunder heard last night did not remain distant. Two hours of my night was spent watching flashes, counting seconds, and then discerning nearness. The rain that accompanied was kept mostly from my body by the tent (probably one of the better things I spent money on for the trip). Due to how it's constructed, there is a good chance that splattered rain caused by rain hitting the ground will find its way onto my face. Due to the same design, the tent also breathes very well.

After crawling from my waterproof nest, made some oatmeal and instant breakfast. I love that stuff. It's like a centrum with deliciousness instead of a pill. Also made some cowboy coffee... basically boiled water and coffee grounds. Let then sit for five, sip slowly, and then throw (or eat :D) the spent grounds. You can eat them if you have the mind. They don't taste too bad or good, but the caffeine they give is plenty enough to help the morning seem more pleasant.

I then started walking toward the James river fueled up while listening to npr. For whatever reason, on any given day, one can pick up about four different npr stations talking about different topics. Today I learned about the new terrifs (sorry if spelled incorrectly) on Chinese solar cells. It was more a discussion about why or what could happen as a result. It was interesting. After I lost reception on that station, I switched over to another regarding voter registration and the electoral college. Even the morning caffeine couldn't help me from yawning.

Found the James to be muddy and the depth indeterminable. It was a shame because it's kind of a tradition to jump into it from the bridge. It's only thirty feet, but I'm not muppet enough to do it without knowing the depth.

The climbs leading to the shelter (Punchbowl Shelter 789.8) were more intimidating on paper than in real life. The weather being hot and humid did lead to heavy leaking from the pores. Aren't visuals lovely? Promise that'll be the last one... today. Thunderstorms were all around us as we hiked into the shelter, but we were fortunate to dodge any direct contact.

The shelter is right next to a pond. It's the first time that I've heard frogs and crickets in a long time. I miss that about home. Thunder is again present in the distance.

Resupplying in Buena Vista tomorrow. Keeper lent me some mashed taters since I seem to keep succumbing to my bad habit of eating all the food to early. I hear there is a Chinese buffet in town... they better be cooking now in preparation.

May 21

Woke after a restless sleep to complete the journey to marble springs (771.6). Remember those biting insects? They were incessant all night long. Every few hours I'd put on another spray of bug spray, but it was never enough. If you could imagine waking to no-see-ums crawling on your face, through your hair, and occasionally biting. It was in one word - annoying.

However, even with the lack of sleep, today was awesome. The air quality for whatever reason was phenomenal. The colors of the sky popped and the visibility was the best yet. This led to some great photos of the surrounding area. Additionally, the views from black rock and Apple orchard mountain were the best in at least two weeks.

The terrain was unforgiving today. Had a climb of more than 2k first thing in the AM. The rest of the day wasn't much better. It was the second day in a row with a 1k leading into camp for the night. I can't complain too much because my shin splints were silent.

Clouds look ominous and thunder is off in the distance. It's an early night for me.

Before I forget, I saw two families of game birds today - a partridge and a turkey. Both had their young with them. It was pretty neat indeed.

May 21

Woke after a restless sleep to complete the journey to marble springs (771.6). Remember those biting insects? They were incessant all night long. Every few hours I'd put on another spray of bug spray, but it was never enough. If you could imagine waking to no-see-ums crawling on your face, through your hair, and occasionally biting. It was in one word - annoying.

However, even with the lack of sleep, today was awesome. The air quality for whatever reason was phenomenal. The colors of the sky popped and the visibility was the best yet. This led to some great photos of the surrounding area. Additionally, the views from black rock and Apple orchard mountain were the best in at least two weeks.

The terrain was unforgiving today. Had a climb of more than 2k first thing in the AM. The rest of the day wasn't much better. It was the second day in a row with a 1k leading into camp for the night. I can't complain too much because my shin splints were silent.

Clouds look ominous and thunder is off in the distance. It's an early night for me.

Before I forget, I saw two families of game birds today - a partridge and a turkey. Both had their young with them. It was pretty neat indeed.

May 20

I woke early, around 2 AM, to a sneezing wheeze sound followed by steps in the leaves near my tent... they moved toward my hung food bag and back toward my tent. About the first time I've felt uncomfortable on the trail, but I was tired enough that I said if whatever was to get the food, congratulations. I fell back asleep. Later I learned that deer make that noise... guess I was uncomfortable about bambi.

I woke later rested even after the early waking. I made some good breakfast and prepped for an easy day. Walking along the sidecut trail was really picturesque. The weather cooperated keeping the temperature below 80 all day. It was around 60 when I got up the second time.

After finding some EtOH trail magic, made my way to Bryant Ridge Shelter (754.5) with Keeper and Duke. Right shin is still bothering me.

Shelter is an incredible three levels. All joints are put together using old wood working methods. Shelter is by a stream. Thus, bugs of the biting variety are prevalent. Time for deet and sleep.

May 17

First real total zero day! The term zero day refers to the number of trail miles accomplished that day; in this case, zero. There is also something known as a nero, but that is a near zero. Just because I zero'd doesn't mean it was a completely sedentary day. I was to aid Keeper and his father in their efforts to move Allison, Keeper's sister, from her apartment at Radford.

After making short work of the furniture Allison had given to another student in the area, it was IHOP time. Got a large omelette and some pancakes. It was excellent. Afterward, we re-supplied at a food lion.

Apparently I was tired. I woke from a four hour nap right in time for the movies. But before the movies it was burger time. Then it was Avengers time. Right after, it was Miller time.

That's a proper zero. Helping somebody, food, sleep, a movie, and beer.

May 16

The day of the pickup.

Today was a rather easy day on the trail. I woke up from my tent site rested and ready to go. I can't say that for the two people camped next to me. Apparently one couldn't sleep, and at 2 AM thought it appropriate to take some Benadryl... I had my stuff packed and ready to go before either showed their faces to the new day.

I had already scheduled today to be a low mileage day. Only real hilights were to be the Audie Murphy monument, the dragon's tooth, and a ride to my first zero day at Radford university to help Keeper's sister move. Turns out I had a surprise coming as well.

It wasn't but a few miles after I started that I almost fell in a creek off of a log bridge. It actually wasn't really my fault. There are two classes of bridges on the trail - those that were (over)designed by civil engineers and those that were designed by muppets using crayons and a 12 pack of PBR. This bridge fell into the second category. Whoever built the bridge used 2.5" nails to secure 2x4 planks to felled trees. I'm not a civil engineer, but I'm not a muppet either. Hindsight isn't the only thing telling me those nails were too short. Anyway, as I was walking along, the "secured" planks tilted completely off to one side attempting to jounce me and my pack right off. The bridge was rather successful in its attempt. I was only able to save myself from falling ten feet by quickly grabbing a good plank using my hand that was still over the bridge.

The rest of the day was enjoyable, but the dragon's tooth was covered in tourists. It's not a real problem; it's there for all, but it was a bit of culture shock. The day ended with beer, ice cream, and then beer and pizza at Radford. Pretty sure it was a good day. Got picked up at the gas station at Newport Road near trail mile 696.8.

May 19

Started out in Daleville, VA after a peaceful night at the Howard Johnson. Split the room with Keeper and his dog, Duke.

It was a later start than normal, but calls had to be made and I had to plan my rendezvous with my hiking buddy and friend, Mike P. After Keeper and I ate pizza, again, and Duke ate cicaedas, we set off. Duke is comfortable enough with me that he'll follow me sometimes instead of Keeper. I didn't want to upset the owner or teach the dog bad habits so I pressed ahead at a faster pace than Keeper.

After starting and getting further into the woods, it really is apparent how loud a million cicaedas? (Bonus points if you can spell it in a comment) can be if chirping at the same time. To me it sounds like what I'd imagine a whole city of car alarms to sound like. It's like walking through a house alarm's high pitched squeals for hours. Tiresome.

Due to previously mentioned plan, I chose a tent spot at 737.8. The spot happens to be about 40 yards from the blue ridge parkway! Turns out that road loses some intrigue or calling when you're not in a car.

May 18

Today was a day of catch-up and interesting firsts. Everyone got up before seven to finish loading the truck with Keeper's sister's belongings. We then drove up to Daleville to drop our backpacks off at the Howard Johnson. Today would be the first day of slack packing or slacking. This term basically means the heavy stuff gets left at the day's terminus, and you'd only carry snacks, water, and other necessities. I made an awesome day pack using a dry bag and my bear line (50 feet of paracord). Today would also be slightly above 25 miles.

But it was worth every step even with a shin splint in my right leg. There were a ton of vistas off of ridges (including the most photographed on the AT), three decently long snakes, and a wild black bear! It was toward the end of the day when we literally just happened to get lucky enough to see it. It was in a gully and we were on the ridge. It even stayed still long enough for me to take a poor picture.

Even though we slack packed, today was exhausting. Due to the nature of the day's accomplishments, we treated ourselves to beer and pizza. Yum!

May 13

Today was a relatively tame day of hiking. Made it to a camp site at 643.5. Stopped earlier than perhaps expected but weather was supposed to turn foul.

Started hiking out of town on mother's day with a belly full of Hardees. The initial climb out of town was the stuff of hiking nightmares - squeeks and freaks (my pack's name) broke a strap pin,there was poison ivy as thick as Donald Trump's hair, steep, and rockier than I would have liked. Locals also might have been drinking as they routed it. Starting to worry a bit about ticks. Saw one on my leg, but I quickly flicked him off. Nothing deet won't fix :D

May 12

Made it into Pearisburg, VA (629.8). I had said going into damascus that a few things inevitably happened on the way into a town. I'm starting to think that the lack of interest might just be a symptom of delirium from lack of food (i made sure to get extra this time). This town is a little more spread out than usual for a small town, but on the good side, it had a lot of good stuff. I was able to resupply from food lion, gorge at a Chinese buffet, and stay in a very decent motel across from a Mexican restaurant ( included free clothes washing performed not by me but some brave employee).

May 11

Made it to Doc's knob shelter (621.6) after a thoroughly interesting day. Night was very restful but cold. Fell asleep to a conversation about amateur radio licenses and regulations. Kind of sounds like fun, maybe.

I knew the day was going to be interesting because of the way it started. Pedestrian was still asleep when I woke. Even after I cooked breakfast, he was still in his hammock sawing logs. When he did get up, we agreed to meet up at Woods Hole Hostel. It was about 20 miles, and he said before he wanted to at least see it.

Ok. I was off at a good clip, but a huge tree was down in the path. I asked politely for it to remove itself, but it was not to be. I gave it a little help with my axe. I think in the future if it needs to be cleared and I can help, I will.

After a job well done, sauntered my lumberjack feeling self down to Trent's grocery. It seems I had worked up quote the appetite - two klondike bars, four chicken strips, two chicken salad samiches, and some fries. Delicious and distracting. I still had like fifteen miles to go. I put on my music and started trapesing through the trees.

The views from the trail were good, but they were still hazy either from moisture or pollution. About five miles from the hostel, I started to get frustrated. Frustrated with my music. It felt like I'd heard it all many times before. Frustrated with the trail. The most recent parts of VA are not well maintained at all. I started to slip into the mood I was in coming out of the smokies - pissed off and contemptuous.

Arrived at the hostel while everyone was at the communal meal. This was a pet a goat, ride a horse, and kiss a plant type place. Signs about conservation and holistic healing service prices were everywhere. The place started to upset me. Don't get me wrong the people were super nice, but if you want me to pay 13 dollars for dinner, I better not have to make it or clear the table. Also, if I pay for a shower, I'm going to get clean even if it's over the five minute limit. Lastly, in don't tell the guide book that laundry is available if it's a scrub board and a roller wringer. Put something like manual wash.

Best part was meeting a very nice dog, Hazel, who reminded me of a dog I once knew and loved. She was a sweetie. After Amish ice cream, I was the heck out of there. Night hiked to the shelter and made someone think I was a bear.

May 10

Today I was tired. Not sure if I've been this tired on the trail before. Cold rain is exhausting. Staying up late watching movies probably isn't advisable. Ate a lot, plan to sleep a lot, and did not hike a lot. Only made it to Jenny Knob at 599.

May 9

Today was one of those impossibly incredible days, and this is including the fact that it managed to rain for half of it. Let me explain. I'll tell you the details and you can decide...

It rained during the previous night, but the air managed to dry enough after it stopped raining to air out the tent.

The shelter we skipped last night did in fact have a nut job practicing karate and playing with the mice.

The weather cleared halfway through the day leading to magnificent views from the ridge.

The guy we called for a pickup and a ride to his dojo was not of the crazy karate variety. He gave us a free ride, a free place to stay with a shower and a movie projector setup, paid for dinner, and even gave a hiker a gently used backpack. This he was a Brit by the name of Nigel Collins or TruBrit (708-207-6725). He runs Fort Bastian Recreation in Bastian, VA. This guy was a legend - ex SAS, owned his own construction business in Britain and the US, and is attemting to make a hiker's paradise and outdoor center near Bastian.

So,
Good: dry tent, views, shower, pizza, beer, and a movie.
Bad: cold rain and a privy with no walls or ceiling.

Second thought, today was a toss up :b

May 8

Today started with rain and ended with rain. I even had to cook in the rain! :b Other than the weather, today was really pretty. Passed through some hilly cow pastures with some benign but menacing looking bovines, across a good bit of streams, and ended with one of the longest climbs of recent. This chestnut ridge gained about 2100 feet in 4.25 miles. Not necessarily the worst grade, but parts were very steep for a long while. At least they felt like they were to me. I'm not exactly unbiased today as the pads of my feet ache. After passing chestnut knob shelter, (very nice but had what appeared to be a homeless resident) wound up tenting near walker gap (566.5). Trying to make it to pearisburg by Saturday.

May 7

Not a whole lot happened on the trail today. Had a nice walk through both a cow pasture and an obligatory rhodedendron forest. Did see some mountain laurel in bloom for the first time since the pond mountain wilderness. Resupplied in Atkins, VA. Caught a ride into town from Sparky's (retired atc from Arizona) brother.

Hilights from town included me eating a pint of Ben and jerry's fish food, a pint of milk, and a pound hiker burger from the Barn. Best burger I have had in a while! Also, Pedestrian pretty much was courted by an ex-exotic dancer. She tried to win him over with cold slaw from the restaurant at which she currently works. Sometimes weird things happen... after getting back in the safer woods, we made it to a really nice tent site at 548.5. Third consecutive day of having a camp fire.

May 6

Today started off with the best of intentions... planned on at least making it twenty miles, but alas, the trail angels would not let that happen. At first I was set back by a lovely basket of trail magic provided by a Baptist church at VA 670 or Holston River. A hiker had to have help set this up because it had ramen, tortillas, and other such hiking foods in addition to sweets and sodas. Pedestrian (Dan from PA) and I joked it would be the best way to trap hikers if one had such intentions.

After leaving that trail magic, we hoofed it to Partnership Shelter (530.6) after we were told other (better?!) trail magic might be found at that location. There was what I would call a feast rather than magic. One of the thruhiker's (Peppa Boy) parents had set up an amazing spread for hikers. We had burgers, turkey dogs, beans, cold slaw, cookies, carrot cake, and some live appalachian folk music. It was incredible. I think, all things considered, the day was a true success. At this rate, if I keep gorging myself, I'll be gaining weight or getting some sort of metabolic illness by the end of this trip.

May 6

Today started off with the best of intentions... planned on at least making it twenty miles, but alas, the trail angels would not let that happen. At first I was set back by a lovely basket of trail magic provided by a Baptist church at VA 670 or Holston River. A hiker had to have help set this up because it had ramen, tortillas, and other such hiking foods in addition to sweets and sodas. Pedestrian (Dan from PA) and I joked it would be the best way to trap hikers if one had such intentions.

After leaving that trail magic, we hoofed it to Partnership Shelter (530.6) after we were told other (better?!) trail magic might be found at that location. There was what I would call a feast rather than magic. One of the thruhiker's (Peppa Boy) parents had set up an amazing spread for hikers. We had burgers, turkey dogs, beans, cold slaw, cookies, carrot cake, and some live appalachian folk music. It was incredible. I think, all things considered, the day was a true success. At this rate, if I keep gorging myself, I'll be gaining weight or getting some sort of metabolic illness by the end of this trip.

May 5

Woke in the shelter loft to what sounded like a sea squall. It had been windy all night, but this was the first significant precipitation. I rolled over, found the book, and proceeded to finish a good portion. Even after the weather subsided I was hesitant to get up. Sometimes tired legs need a rest. What finally got me moving was an unfamiliar, repetitive scratching sound. I peeked down the ladder to find what I will call a shelter pony scratching itself on the picnic table like a dog. I can't say I trust ponies in general, but this one looked especially untrustworthy. There was no way I was leaving my food bag around this guy.

After getting water, I started my hike into the Grayson Highlands. Once again, it was as if I had ventured into the wilds of the UK for the day. Lush grassland, large boulders strewn into lazy piles, small and medium rocks sprinkled throughout, and walking paths cut into the landscape. I even got a nice mid afternoon europeanesque rain shower.

After the highlands, I entered the woods again to find well graded trail. It's not the lack of elevation change in Virginia, because it still has that, but the lack of rough paths that make it easier. Made it to a tent site at Dickey Gap (516.1).

May 3

Today was a day for the birds or the dogs whichever you prefer. My hiking party has split for the time being due to Willie wanting to wait for Kerry who was slower due to meeting her boyfriend. Started hiking out of damascus around 2 after eating and visiting the library. Didn't expect to get far, but my pack felt like it was made of cement. Couple that with a too close thunderstorm and you have less than ideal hiking conditions. I felt magnetically drawn to ever tent site I passed. Eventually I gave in and tented at 474.1. After such a slow start, I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised that the bear bag took an hour too hang. The rope was too short, the throw a little too short, the limb a little too flexible, or the limb too thin and brittle. Only thing that saved today was a paperback - hitchhikers guide to the galaxy.   

May 4

Today was blissfully quiet. Not that I minded hiking with others, I quite enjoy it, but you miss a bit of the raw nature when conversing with a friend. I didn't see a single other thru hiker the entire day until I arrived at the shelter ( Thomas knob shelter 494.9).

The hiking weather was very pleasant at around 70-75 all day long. The area around Mount Rogers is stupendously gorgeous. I don't know if it was just today or if God made it extra beautiful today, but the slight wind moving through the fur trees or along the balds coupled with perfect lighting was awe inspiring.

I even got a little comic relief from a new thru hiker from Manchester UK. He has the most interesting nervous laugh/ stutter that accompanies every sentence. He's getting fussed at by the ridge runner for leaving the fire unattended after he had dutifully stoked it. It's pretty funny... laugh stutter... I didn't ... light it ... not mine.... laugh stutter ... I'm watching over it... others went to ... stutter laugh... bed. To which the ridge runner stated, " right, I'm going to go put it out then."    :D

May 2

Woke up from a pretty peaceful sleep in my screen tent. No bear problems to report at all during the night. This last fact probably made the shelter dweller happy. Made what was left of my food supply into a single pot and set off into Damascus.

Those ten miles right before town always go the same way.

1. You're moving too fast to really care of notice anything of interest on the trail. What's that - a snail? Nope, no time to look at it... I'm HUNGRY, TIRED, and THIRSTY. Conversations in your head about what you'll eat or drink can become quite animated.
2. The trail smells get super intense. You start noticing the aromatic nature of the place. The flowers' smells really seem to pop. Even trees, which most people don't think have a particular smell, can blend together into the most amazing of fragrances. I don't know if it's because of entering a lower elevation with more flowers or just your mind entering a different mode of thought.
3. Invariably, you'll always hear the whine of a lawn mower... for whatever reason, that sound carries well into the distance. It's always the first sign that a town in close. Someone is ALWAYS waging a war on the ever growing weed. Even though they planted it in the first place.

After getting into Damascus, VA and securing a room for the night with Willie, I went to the post office to locate a veritable treasure trove of goodies my parents sent to greet me in Damascus. I had brownies, cookies, banana nut bread, candies, socks, a ShamWow. First thing was of course first. I went to the dollar store, bought some milk, and started polishing off a good portion of aforementioned cookies. After eating well above the daily prescribed amount of cookies (which is far too low for a long distance hiker IMHO), I  went to a place called Quincey's Pizza. They were to take most of the money I spent in town. Just a really good pizza place with decent prices, good desserts, and $2 Natty Light Sports (22 oz of trouble). The calzones, strombolis, burgers,and salads were all great.

Not too much else to report on today except that I washed clothes shirtless. I was sure I was going to be fined, but I thought I could make the argument that my unwashed clothes were a far greater threat to public decency than my bare chest. Assured of my defense, I started reading an older Time Magazine from 1992 about the rise of Milan. I'd like to visit there one day. The opera house looks astounding.

Off into the wood again tomorrow.

May 1

Remember how I said that the shelter had a view? We were up so high that the clouds were at least a thousand feet below the shelter. Total different view from night and morning. In the night, the lake and harbors on the lake were visible, but in the morning, absolutely nothing was viewable. If you can imagine seeing a cloud where there used to a be a lake! Totally weird.

After examining the map and the elevation profile for the day, I decided today would be a day to put down some good honest miles... and to get as close to town as I could before I ran out of food. I have a nasty habit of getting enough supplies in town for my time out but not budgeting the food stores. Sometimes I will get to the day before town and find myself with little to no real food for the last push into town.

I started off at a blistering pace absolutely destroying mileage. I averaged close to 3 mi/hour for the better part of the day, and I even managed to pass people who left the shelter an hour before I did. Towards the end of the day, at about mile 20, my concentration started to flag, this confounded lack of progress was heavily affected by my mp3 player running out of juice. I'd been relying heavily on that to help me keep a good pace. After almost getting passed by someone I passed earlier, I made it into Abingdon Gap Shelter for the night (456.7).

Apparently no one wanted to sleep in the shelter. This universal choice was likely due to some nasty biting flies in the general vicinity of the shelter. Who was I to argue with the common consciousness?  I set up my tent so that it was only useful to keep the bugs off me while I slept - tied up the vestibules so that the tent body, made of screen, was the only thing between myself and the wilds of the night. Someone who came to the shelter later took quite an initial fright seeing all the bear bags and no one sleeping in the shelter. Since I was the only one who appeared up at the point when he made it in to camp, he came over and asked, "Um, what's the deal with the shelter? Is there anything wrong with it? I see all the bear bags..." I should have messed with him a little more, but I just told him the biting flies were bad earlier. I can be a nice person sometimes.

Off to Damascus tomorrow. Crossing into VA for the first time!